Author Topic: Shirt A Month?  (Read 73896 times)

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Offline peter

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #35 on: December 13, 2011, 04:18:35 AM »
Wow.  This group is gathering quite the momentum.  I hope some of it rubs off on me. 

Susan, thanks for your gracious reply to my awkward DPC comment.  And yes, Robyn, I was thinking of his personal creations too.   I haven't sewn a shirt in quite some time so I feel like I'm starting from the ground up here.  I'm not a big pattern user.  I seem to do better with deconstructing/ripping apart a old favorite and going from there.  I had a favorite Pendleton from the '70s that finally succumbed to moths.  Solid navy wool, a half zipper opening with a typical 70's collar and flap pockets.  I made an updated version of that shirt without the pockets and no cuffs with some small details added. 

Now I'd like to use some of the amazing woolens from Michael's Fabrics that I've been hoarding.  Another favorite shirt-jacket is a navy Paul Smith from the 80's.  It has aged well but I'd like to make something like it in linen. 

Just to be clear, I think the DPC book is the bible for shirt construction.  Everything else is support material as far as I'm concerned.  Should I break down and buy the DVD?  One person who hasn't been mentioned yet is Margaret Islander.  I have her Industry Methods (?) VHS that I converted to DVD a while back.  She had some good techniques for the collar stand and flat felled seams.  I never bought her shirt pattern but I heard it's worth the $ just for the instructions.  Does anyone have any experience with it?

For me, the biggest challenge will be completing the first shirt.  I tend to get caught up in the details and accuracy, get disappointed and abandon.  I think I'll start by practicing on various parts of the shirt.  The collar, cuff and placket.  Sewing a beautiful flat fell seam is no easy task either. 
'
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Offline Susan in Miami

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #36 on: December 13, 2011, 12:03:45 PM »
Hi Peter,

I have all the Margaret Islander books and DVDs and they are fabulous! I would not sew as well as I do if I had not watched and read all of it. Her shirt patterns are wonderful and can be a jumping off point for many other shirts.

Sewing should be fun and rewarding. As one perfectionist to another, don't let your need for the perfect detail get in the way, I no longer do and my sewing is better. I certaininly do more of it. No one else will even know or care that it is not what you thought it should be.Everyone will just be awed by what it is.

Susan



Offline Fran G

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #37 on: December 13, 2011, 01:27:55 PM »
Words to live by, Susan:
Quote
No one else will even know or care that it is not what you thought it should be.Everyone will just be awed by what it is.


I sometimes feel compelled to point out tiny errors when someone compliments me on a garment. I will remember your comment next time! Of course, how would they know that those extra seams down the back are there because the fit was too big!!!!????

Offline martha.myers

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #38 on: December 13, 2011, 06:19:22 PM »
What a great thread! Pam Howard is teaching a class on shirt details for ASG Atlanta in February. I've been collecting shirt patterns in preparation for that and now I have even more inspiration to make shirts in 2012. Thanks for starting this, Blue Mooney! Vogue 8746 (http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8746-products-14716.php?page_id=866) has caught my eye, so maybe that will be my first. Martha

Offline Karendee

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #39 on: December 13, 2011, 07:40:37 PM »
Robin,

Thanks so much for your video. It is wonderful and a great learning tool!!!

Karen

Offline sewmodest

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #40 on: December 13, 2011, 08:53:41 PM »
This sounds nice I think I'll join in on this fun. I love wearing shirts (button front with collar that are semi fitted), but have yet to try and make my own. Already I have a shirt pattern I plan to use for the next year to try and get a good TnT shirt pattern, its McCall's 5138. This sew along is just a bit more motivation to get me started on it. I'll try for now to do one every other month which means 6 total but if I do more the better.

Offline Lisa

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #41 on: December 13, 2011, 09:55:23 PM »
For me, the biggest challenge will be completing the first shirt.  I tend to get caught up in the details and accuracy, get disappointed and abandon.  I think I'll start by practicing on various parts of the shirt.  The collar, cuff and placket.  Sewing a beautiful flat fell seam is no easy task either. 

Liana has some specific suggestions for a "first shirt."  See the link that Robyn (blue mooney) put in the first post in this thread.

HTH,

Lisa
Found: a favorite silver bracelet that I hadn't seen for a while.  On its four quarters it says "Welcome Introspection; Accept Wisdom; Seek Illumination; Embrace Innocence."   It's like a "magic 8-ball" on the wrist...

Offline PattiH

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #42 on: December 13, 2011, 11:06:49 PM »
I am in on this also.  Though I mostly wear knit tops, I really prefer shirts, so I need to get going and 'git er done'.

Does this feel kinda weird to some of the rest of you?  I can remember when all I sewed were shirts, because there weren't really any knits.  Though I have to admit I am not as good at them as I would like to be, there have been many shirts with plackets, buttons, collars, cuffs on sleeves .... and none of them done particularly well, but I am definitely in for this one so I can remedy that situation.

Patti

Offline Ann

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #43 on: December 14, 2011, 01:05:48 AM »
I am not sure how many shirts I will get made but I will give it a try. First one is started and the embroidery sample is done.


I can start embroidering the yoke tomorrow afternoon if the client likes the colours. The pink peeking out will be the piping which I will make.

Sewmodest, I made that shirt and it turned out pretty good. I did take a tiny tuck into the top of the sleeve cap to eliminate a bit of the fullness. You can see what I did here -- Whew

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Offline MrsBean

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #44 on: December 14, 2011, 01:22:08 AM »
Hello. I am a long time lurker here and I would also like to join in the shirt a month. I sure need some shirts. My go-to outfit is shirt and jeans and I am desperately short of shirts (and jeans for that matter).

The shirt a month is much more achievable for me than the JAM was/is. I look forward to joining in and seeing what we all make.

Michele

Offline jsews

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #45 on: December 14, 2011, 01:41:02 AM »
I am in!  The JAM was fun - even though I came nowhere near 12 completed, I think I got 5.  I loved the experience and all the inspiration and ideas.   I need several shirts and have many patterns I want to try as well.  I am glad the rules are very lax as I like the freedom of being able to use what works for each one individually.  I am hoping to try several styles though.  Definitely want to find a classic shirt style for a TNT - possibly Peggy Sagers or Louise Cuttings pattern.

Thanks Robin for starting this.

Jean
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Offline sewmodest

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #46 on: December 14, 2011, 07:47:38 AM »
@Ann Thanks for the info and tip. I don't like a lot of fullness in my sleeve so that will be one thing I'll try to eliminate.

Today I'm going to start working on fitting my pattern.

Offline Sergerqueen

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #47 on: December 14, 2011, 11:50:25 AM »
I went on a shirt making jag this fall after watching Peggy Sagers' video.  I would highly recommend watching it as you can really streamline your sewing with her techniques.  It can be seen here:

http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_03_14_2011.htm

I may pop in for a few shirts but I fell off the jacket making wagon and I really need to focus on sewing those!

Offline blue mooney

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #48 on: December 14, 2011, 12:05:52 PM »
Welcome, all! Who'da thunk so many people would be interested in shirts? The more that share, the more we learn.

Thank you for the Peggy Sagers link, Sergerqueen!

I've been doing my yoke drafting and am running short on tracing paper and my markers all seem to have run dry. Good thing Office Depot is right by my office and sells those kind of sewing supplies.

Martha, the vogue site isn't responding right now, so I'll have to check out your pattern later.

Sewmodest, that looks like an excellent basic that you've picked out there. You can adjust how fitted you want it to be with those vertical darts.

Offline Janis

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #49 on: December 14, 2011, 05:18:04 PM »
Just bought this from EOS for one of my shirts.  It's silk :D

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Offline ejvc

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #50 on: December 14, 2011, 05:19:14 PM »
I can't help it, I keep thinking of this as the "sham" group, not the "sam" group.

I rarely wear shirts, so am unlikely to join, but will watch with interest.
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Offline Susan in Miami

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #51 on: December 14, 2011, 05:24:10 PM »
Just bought this from EOS for one of my shirts.  It's silk :D



Just lovely, what a beautiful shirt this will make. The colors will go with most anything and the print can be dressed up or down.

Great start, Susan



Offline sdBev

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #52 on: December 14, 2011, 09:08:53 PM »
I went on a shirt making jag this fall after watching Peggy Sagers' video.  I would highly recommend watching it as you can really streamline your sewing with her techniques.  It can be seen here:

http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_03_14_2011.htm

I may pop in for a few shirts but I fell off the jacket making wagon and I really need to focus on sewing those!
Oh nice movie.  I did learn something new.  After watching Peggy I'm going to change my sewing order and put the front facings on first, sew the shoulders add the collar. 

Offline Janis

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #53 on: December 14, 2011, 09:57:28 PM »
I posted this on the Michaels thread, but just wanted you to know that Michaels has a mailer that is cotton/wool challis.  I emailed them to ask if it is viyella and it is.  This would be wonderful shirt fabric.
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Offline sewmodest

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #54 on: December 14, 2011, 11:58:07 PM »
Well its almost 3am for me, I have been fitting McCall's 5138 for almost the last 3 hours (that includes two nursing breaks for my infant son) and so far am quiet pleased with the fit so far. I'm still learning to fit so its not perfect but way better than anything I would get RTW and I'm quiet please with what I have done for a begnning fitter. After trying on muslin I pinned in the vertical darts and hopefully mark those and transfer then to the tissue paper later today. From there my pattern is ready for some fashion fabric. I know I still have somethings to work on as far as fit but I'll let that be a an on going learning process since I'm working on getting this to be a TnT shirt pattern. :snooze: now time for some sleep just hope the 5 month old stays asleep for the rest of tonight.

Happy sewing everyone

Offline blue mooney

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #55 on: December 15, 2011, 12:42:40 AM »
Janis....that fabric.....WOW!
Is viyella washable? I was going to resist temptation, but if it can go in the laundry I might give in.

sewmodest, my first aim is to get a real TNT, too. The Ottobre that I'm using is very close, but still needs a little work.

I've pretty much decided on silk for my first shirt. I've had to spread the tiny bit of drafting over several evenings, and really wish I had just saved it all for one session. I can't remember what I've already done, already checked, etc. Too much opportunity for error and I've already had a big stupid moment today. grrrrrrrrr.

Offline vwgrant

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #56 on: December 15, 2011, 01:17:05 AM »
I've always wondered about 'all in one' collars (stand and collar together) vs. separate stand  and collar.  Is the all in one the lazy collar way and separates more up-scale? Does it have to do with wearing a neck tie and the spread of the collar?

I just finished Marfy 9865 which has one of the 'all in one' collars and I have to say I did not like a number of things on the pattern, the collar being one of them. The placket slit was on the top of the arm, instead of on the rear portion of the sleeve.  Both the cuff and sleeve were enormous to the point of feeling like it didn't belong to a princess seam garment. When I went back and looked at the illustration, those parts were sort of suggested but no where near reality. I took short cuts with the muslin and only worked up the body and skipped the sleeves. Boy, I should NOT have done that because the sleeves were a big headache. I ended up tearing it all apart after it was completely assembled and re-cutting new sleeves and cuffs/relocating the placket to the under side of the sleeve and I'm still not sure I like it.

Offline theresa in tucson

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #57 on: December 15, 2011, 01:54:19 AM »
Vickie, the all in one collar is a definite option for shirts.  Check out Pam Erny's blog Off the Cuff for a tutorial on how to do a good all in one collar.  Done right they look good; done wrong they look cheesy and home made lazy.

Offline marciae

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #58 on: December 15, 2011, 02:15:18 AM »
Vicki - your shirt looks fine to me!

I think for the first shirt I "might" finish my Sharmane F blouse/shirt that I started in 1993 according to my notes on the pattern envelope.  I have the shoulders together and the collar half on - so it's almost like starting 'fresh'!! ;D ;D
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Offline Soupdragon

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #59 on: December 15, 2011, 09:44:28 AM »
I prefer collars cut as stand/collar rather than all in one - buts thats just personal choice.

Marciae - good luck finishing that blouse. Its always good to get a UFO out of the way!

Offline AnnRowley

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #60 on: December 15, 2011, 10:12:35 AM »
Is viyella washable? I was going to resist temptation, but if it can go in the laundry I might give in.

If it is truly Viyella then it is washable. Machine wash, wool setting, but it needs to line dry.

I haven't seen Viyella yardage for years, but I have several (old) shirts the are regularly machine washed.

Offline martha.myers

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #61 on: December 15, 2011, 02:15:09 PM »
Vicki,
I love all the top-stitching on your shirt. Well done!
Martha

Offline Ann

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #62 on: December 15, 2011, 02:39:59 PM »
Vicky, what a gorgeous shirt. You did a great job on it.

Ann
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Offline Janis

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #63 on: December 15, 2011, 02:45:46 PM »
That is a beautiful shirt, Vicky. ;)
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Offline vwgrant

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #64 on: December 15, 2011, 04:42:36 PM »
Theresa--I appreciate you directing me to Pam Erny's site. I've looked at her tutorials but didn't remember the all-in-one information.  I did not do near the interfacing treatment that Pam showed so I can see how that would improve an all-in-one collar enormously. Next time a sale comes around, I'll get some of the crisp shirting interfacing she uses and try it again. It's funny how my sewing is taking a distinctive lurch in the direction of garment structure, what goes on underneath. Understructure is my sewing theme for 2012.

Thank you all for the compliments. There was some pressure to complete it--my sewing teacher had given us "the Marfy challenge" so I had to hustle to be able to do a pattern review in real life.  I think if I give it some "hang time" in my closet, I'll like it better. Right now I'm in the "I am SOOO DONE with you!" phase.

If you want to see some of the other Marfy patterns, have a look at her website, which is run by one of her students. There are a couple of blouses that have a lot of potential.
http://janefosterdesign.com/marfy_pattern_challenge.html 

 BTW, I learned a bunch of Marfy facts at our challenge show-n-tell potluck--It started in the '60s, it's a small family company run by women.  Marfy continues to sell patterns from previous years, so even if something is not in the book, they have the pattern blocks from all their patterns. Now if you can dredge up the pattern numbers and remember what they look like from days of yore, THAT is another challenge. My sewing teacher, Jane, skypes with the Marfy gals almost daily--asking questions about their nomenclature,coaching them to a little better English translation and encouraging them to expand their pattern sizing.  She scaled up the pink coat 2 sizes and changed some proportions to show how their designs can still look beautiful on a larger body. All us "Jane groupies/students" keep asking her to write a more in depth article about Marfy for Threads or Vogue magazine.


Offline AnnRowley

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #65 on: December 15, 2011, 05:06:01 PM »
Vicki, I should have commented earlier on your great shirt!

What an interesting class you attend, and such a lot of lovely garments to look at! I really enjoyed seeing the standard of workmanship that you all achieved.

Offline marciae

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #66 on: December 15, 2011, 05:08:00 PM »
Vicki - what a great class.  I really enjoyed the garments.  Now I'm off to look at the purses!!
I refuse to tip toe cautiously thru life only to arrive safely at deaths door.
Live your life in such a way that when your feet hit the floor in the morning, Satan shudders & says...  'Oh darn ........ she's awake!!'
Age may wrinkle the face, but lack of enthusiasm wrinkles the soul

Online vtmartha

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #67 on: December 15, 2011, 07:11:49 PM »
Vicki, thanks for sharing your lovely shirt and the information on your sewing classes.  I very much enjoyed looking through her site.

Offline lydia

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #68 on: December 15, 2011, 07:30:03 PM »
I purchased the Silhouette pattern #900 shirt.  I was a little dumbfounded when I realized the shirt collar is one piece.  I will redraft a new collar and stand, as I never liked the method used for construction.  I use the B. Hellyer, M. Islander, L. Cutting method of attaching collars/stands.  Rest of pattern looks OK.  I purchased this as I wanted a less dropped shoulder look.  Oh well, live and learn............Lydia  By the way, when will L. Cutting release the new shirt pattern?
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Offline sdBev

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Re: Shirt A Month?
« Reply #69 on: December 15, 2011, 08:41:54 PM »
I've always wondered about 'all in one' collars (stand and collar together) vs. separate stand  and collar.  Is the all in one the lazy collar way and separates more up-scale? Does it have to do with wearing a neck tie and the spread of the collar?
..
Interesting question.  I always thought the all-in-one collar was drafted for blouses that were to be left open at the neck.  The all-in-one collar lays open very nicely.  I thought the separate stand was needed for shirt collars. The reasoning being that the stand with all it's lines of additional stitching would stand-up and hug your neck better.    I could be totally wrong.  I did watch Peggy Sayers video. She created a blouse without any interfacing. The all-in-one collar hugged the back of the neck nicely while laying open in front.  So, what were the rest of you taught?

OK spell checker doesn't like "layes" but doesn't give me a good alternative.  Someone please correct my spelling, 'cause I don't know any better.

etc: spelling  ;)
« Last Edit: December 15, 2011, 09:27:53 PM by Lisa »

 

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