Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements VI

[martha.myers]

Does anyone have an idea how to remove stitch witchery from a piece of light weight wool? At sewing retreat, one sewer's stitch witchery transferred onto another's lovely black wool fabric at the ironing board. She has tried making a dauber and lightly rubbing the spot, but very little came off. I think it's also still on my ironing board. Thanks. Martha

[Terri K]

Martha I would like to know that as well because there's a piece of fusible interfacing on a skirt yoke that I altered that won't come off;  and I don't want to ruin the wool boucle fabric with rough methods.     It's a Chanel skirt and I opened it up because the 1" seams added too much bulk and I wanted to decrease that.   Then I ran into  that interfacing that is like iron.

[Lora]

I have had success with using denatured alcohol (not rubbing alcohol).  Just be sure to test on your fabric first to be sure it doesn't damage it, and use with plenty of ventilation.

[artistwhosews]

Louise once told me to press the fabric with the stitch witchery with an iron onto another waste fabric and keep doing that until most of it transfers off. Don't know what to do about the remaining bits, though.
Hellenne

[marciae]

RE the ACA top - - it says 'hip length' - does that mean the hip bone??   I'm 5'2 and I think Louise's patterns are for 5'6 - - I'm going to try and trace tomorrow.  I think the small might be a smidgen too tight - around the hips - the med too big.  But it depends on where would be the best place for the blouse to end.  I'm thinking my hip bone?  Terri - or anyone that's made the top - your thoughts please
Thanks

[LOUISE CUTTING]

OK, i'M POPPING IN FOR A SECOND...oops, cap lock left on...to see what you are all up to...been a bit busy getting 'The Blouse Perfected' ...name of new pattern....ready for Sandy and me to stitch the the first samples for real. There will be 3 different views in the pattern.

To answer stuff here...lets start out with the lining for ACA...If you left the bottom loose you could drop in a lining and then use thread chains from the lining to the garment at the side seams and CB to hold it place. The two different fronts could go at the bottom angles of the left and right front...travel at the hem angle toward the side seams and then go straight across the back at about 1 1/2" above the hem fold. If you marry the left and right backs together at the center back in the tissue, you would get the shape and size of the complete back. The sleeve would be done like normal lining a sleeve and could be stitched like a traditional sleeve hem lining. 

Using the fronts & whole back tissue pattern pieces...trace them off and then lay the facing tissue over the shapes you just traced and draw the edge of the facing pieces.  Add 1 1/4" to the facing lines you just drew...toward the front of the garment and toward the neck line. What you are doing is adding all the seam allowances to the lining pattern pieces. When you stitch the lining to the facings, it will be at 5/8"...you are taking 5/8" away from the facing pieces in fashion fabric and adding 5/8" back to the lining fabric...it will equal out in the end. To give some wiggle room, add about 2" that will be pleated out at center back in the lining so it will still sew in '1 to 1' around the back facing area. Stitch at about 2" vertical inches at the waist area in the lining for the pleat  to controll the pleat in this area. If you keep the hems separate, it will make your life so much easier.

Have you been able to remove the stitch witchery yet? What has been recommended here is all I can think of also.

Marciae...Hip length is around your hip bone...but it is really up to you if you want it shorter or longer. With you being 5'2"... you could still be long waisted so double check at center back length...where you want the top to end. If you are between two sizes you can start out with the Small and slice it in 'no mans land'...about half way between the neck and armseye along the shoulder seam to the hem. Knowing what you do in the front will transfer to the back and from the front right side to left side. So if you add 1/2" to one quarter of the front, you will actually be adding 2" total circumference. Double check if you are using the size Small...is the circumference of the arm going to be big enough for you? If not, use the size Medium and to the reverse in 'no mans land' and take some of the circumference out. Make sure you double check the sleeve length whatever you do. These sleeves are bracelet length...shorter than wrist, but not as short as a 3/4" length sleeve.

Off to fill orders, Threads magazine must have hit Canada and Australia...I am getting orders for DSN like crazy....!

I don't have a time frame for the new 'TBP' to be available...will keep you posted as it progress. If I have pictures of either Sandy's or my finished garments I'll send pictures to anyone here who puts pictures up easily...still don't have the time to learn it. Webboy is over here all day tomorrow...we will be updating my website, so I can have a blog and bet rid of the out of date gallery and I will be able to work on the 'non-sale' pages as he call it...other words the info pages. Oh joy, more time at the computer and less at the sewing machine!

I'm off..till later, Louise

[martha.myers]

Many thanks, Louise, for the details concerning lining. It makes good sense. I'll use these instructions the next time I line it. In fact, even though I've already cut out the lining using the standard pieces, I might be able to incorporate all of your ideas. Thanks again.

Can't wait to see the new pattern. No news on the stitch-witchery problem from my friend.

Martha

[marciae]

thanks louise.

[martha.myers]

Finally finished my ACA jacket and I think it's going to be a wardrobe basic for me. I'm still tweaking it a bit, but wore it today and enjoyed the way it looked and felt. The fashion fabric is a lower quality silk matka; lining is China silk. I had thought of it as a wearable muslin, but I enjoyed it so much today, I think I'll be reaching for it all the time!

I followed Louise's advice for lining (above) which worked great! Thanks so much, Louise, for taking the time to provide these very helpful instructions.

[Linda 75142]

Looks great Martha!  Yep, wear it often!

[mom2five]

Beautiful jacket Martha!  I'm working on mine today

[marciae]

great jacket

[shams]

That is so cute, Martha!

[fzxdoc]

Beautiful, Martha! You look so happy in your new jacket!

Kathryn

[lydia]

Martha.....how nice!  Looks like a keeper...........Lydia.....by the way - what do you feel you need to "tweak"?

[martha.myers]

One possible tweak is to shorten the fronts, or let out the front facings just a little. The fabric puddles just a little. It may be because I interfaced the facing but not the exterior fashion fabric. It's pretty minor though and I'm ready to move on to something else right now. Thanks for the kind comments.
Martha

[Karendee]

Great jacket, Martha.

Karen

[sdBev]

Great jacket, Martha.

Karen

What she said. 

[lessalt]

Martha, So pretty and so wearable - I think you are right about wearing it a lot.

[blue mooney]

Martha, that jacket looks beautiful. Love the choice of matka for this style!

[chimey]

Regarding the issue of removing Stitch Witchery from fabric, I googled it and came up with 2 suggestions:
1. Use "Goo Be Gone" (I think that's what it was called).

Another suggestion from the Prym Website is:
Stitch Witchery is designed as a permanent bond but you can attempt to remove any unwanted residue by following these steps:

•Reheat iron on a dry cotton setting or as hot as your fabric will allow.
•Place a scrap piece of a cotton terry towel over the residue.
•Reheat the area with the iron for about 10 seconds.
•Immediately pull away the heated scrap - the reheated residue should pull away from the fabric and adhere to the scrap.
•Repeat this process until the residue has been completely removed. Be sure to use a clean area of the scrap fabric each time.

Another suggestion was: . Heat it with your iron held about an inch above the goo. Zap
the mess with steam - then rub with a wide, flat eraser. (I believe that they mean an Art Gum Eraser)

It will be interesting to say the least! Your clothes Martha are always so classy and well made! Gosh! You are such an inspiration!

[Sandy]

Hello Ladies,

At last, and with much help from the moderators, I think I'm ready to post a photo.  Let's see how this goes.



I thought you might get a kick out of seeing some of the sewing I'm doing in preparation for the fashion show in Puyallup next February.  (Actually, I cheated a bit.  The jacket on the far left is mine--maybe I'll wear it at Puyallup.  It is a coat from Pure and Simple, just the top 2 layers made in the same fabric.)

The other garments (left to right) are the top from A Cute Angle, a blue A Cute Angle jacket, a floral campshirt from Easy Ageless Cool, a white shirt made from the ABO jacket pattern, a vest from the same pattern but with no sleeves, a pair of striped straight leg One-Seams with hem darts made ankle-length paired with a shirt from A Subtle Twist, an orange jacket from A Cute Angle over a dress made as a lengthened shell from Pure and Simple, and a jacket from Fun with Fabrics on which I pieced the bands.  That was fun!

Oh!  I forgot one.  You can just see a tan skirt with the white blouse and boucle vest.  It is a shortened version of the skirt from In the Trenches.

This represents only a small part of the clothing that will appear at the fashion show, so I thought that I would show you what I am doing as I am in the process of creating the outfits.  I love seeing what everyone does with the patterns, so I wanted to jump in and make a contribution.

I plan to take more detailed photos of each outfit and each garment so you can have a clearer idea of what I've done.  Then I'm guessing that I will start to see variations coming back from all of you. 

I remember that many of you were talking about my White Shirt class a while ago.  The white shirt and boucle vest you are seeing here make up another version of that idea.  I think some of you did the same thing.  Anybody have a photo?  Louise made one of these vests from scraps from a jacket.  She pieced the scraps till she had large enough blocks to cut the main pattern pieces, and it looks terrific.

[margyh]

What a treat to see your beautiful pieces, Sandy! Looking forward to more 

[marciae]

thanks sandy looking forward to more

[Carolyn]

Sandy, thanks so much for posting.  What an inspiration!  I have fabric ready to become ABO shirts and vests.  Your pictures make me want to start immediately.  Unfortunately, I need to get the winter coat made first.

I look forward to seeing more creations.  I'm sure the show in Pallyup will be great.

[blue mooney]

Sandy, thanks for doing all that coding work so that we could see this great rack of garments and know which patterns were used for each! Very exciting - I have one of those fabrics and was really pleased to see it made up in the same pattern I was thinking of using. VALIDATION! Oh, yes, I feel good now.

[Karendee]

Sandy,

Thanks for sharing all these lovely garments with us.

Karen

[Susan in Miami]

Sandy,

You are alwasys beautifully dressed and have a wonderful knack of mixing and matching. It is great to see your "stuff".

Look forward to seeing you in January, Susan

[mom2five]

Thanks Sandy, even without seeing the details you can tell that they're just gorgeous. 

I finally finished and put up a picture on Photobucket of the jacket I made that started from the ACA top pattern.  It's definitely not one of Louise's finely drafted garments but I had a lot of fun making it. 

[Joanne W]

Thanks for sharing with us Sandy.  It is fun to see what you are working on.  I loved your E&F top that you had on at the ASG convention.

[Carolyn]

Your jacket looks great!  It's also a great picture of you.

[marciae]

i agree with carolyn

[martha.myers]

Sandy - so fabulous! Can't wait to see the individual pieces. What inspiration you have provided.

Joanne - what are you wearing in your avatar? Looks like some fab pieces from CLD.

Martha

[Joanne W]

Martha, that is My Heart's A Flutter.  I made it out of a linen, rayon blend and just love wearing it.  It is so comfortable and I wore it at the ASG Convention in LA in August and got many compliments on it.

[MarcyF]

Wow, it's been kind of quiet around here lately.  I hope that means you all are out creating new beautiful Cutting Line Designs garments!  This weekend I made another ABO jacket out of some cotton/lycra (lots of lycra!) jacquard from Marcy Tilton.  I didn't have appropriate buttons in my stash, so that part isn't done yet.  But, then again, maybe I'll just leave it as is, without closures.  I'll have to ponder.  I tried to get a photo where you can see the texture of the fabric, but I had limited light to work with.


DSC_0011 by MarcyLF, on Flickr


DSC_0012 by MarcyLF, on Flickr

Marcy