Author Topic: "Fitting" Oversize Garments  (Read 623 times)

Offline Susan in Saint John

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"Fitting" Oversize Garments
« on: July 22, 2018, 09:40:11 PM »
Perhaps I should have posted this in the Lagenlook thread.  If it should be moved, please do so.

I like over-sized lagenlook garments and I make minor alterations to some that I purchase but when I sew them, I have a tendency to over fit them.  All the fitting resources that I have are for fitted or perhaps semi-fitted garments.  Bottoms are not a problem for me but tops are as I have narrow shoulders and a full bust.

I don't know if the shoulders should fit or if they should be extended but not so much as to be sloppy. Maybe, I need to do a narrow shoulder adjustment on an extended shoulder -- hard to know by how much.  Lagenlook sleeves are often not especially large. 

I had on a purchased top this morning which is One Size fits 8 to 20.  I am unhappy with the extra fabric at the shoulders.  I played around a bit on my dress form but didn't really come up with a solution.  There is of course sufficient fabric that I could totally re-cut the armholes [which are at my elbow, or at least feel like they are] to narrow the shoulders.  Thoughts anyone?

Offline fzxdoc

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Re: "Fitting" Oversize Garments
« Reply #1 on: July 23, 2018, 01:14:35 PM »
Thank you for starting this topic, Susan. I'm with you--I love the look of oversized garments on others (think Louise Cutting, The Sewing Workshop, lagenlooks, etc.) but for myself, I am uncomfortable with swimming in all that fabric, especially on top.

And like you, I am small shouldered. My shoulders are small enough that they exaggerate my average bust (36B) and make fitting the bodice something that must be done on all patterns.

This summer, I've focused on making looser dresses for coolness, and last winter I tried some larger silhouette (lagenlook-ish) looks but I'm still not pleased.  This is the longest garment sewing run I've had where the silhouette of some of the resulting garments are only minimally pleasing. (See my 'blog--link in my signature-- if interested).

I'm not certain I can help with your current pattern fitting dilemma. Can you give us the pattern information? In general, I avoid one size patterns like the plague because they usually look like bedsheets on me. ;D

Kathryn
« Last Edit: July 23, 2018, 01:16:20 PM by fzxdoc »
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Offline CCL

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Re: "Fitting" Oversize Garments
« Reply #2 on: July 23, 2018, 01:21:01 PM »
Another thank you, Susan, for this topic.  I have the opposite problem from Kathryn - I have very square, broad shoulders for the rest of my body and so these styles - for very different reasons - also make me look like I just wrapped the bedsheet around me.  They also just make me look unkept. 
 

But I love the look on others, Mary's (M lambie)  styling in this vein is perfection, so every once in a while I get tempted, make something, take a look in the mirror, and then remember.  sigh.

Offline sliderule

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Re: "Fitting" Oversize Garments
« Reply #3 on: July 23, 2018, 02:45:17 PM »
Susan, this is something I wonder about also.  I haven't been really satisfied with narrowing a dropped or extended shoulder because I am never sure how much to remove.  It would be nice if the pattern company would indicate how far dropped a dropped shoulder is intended to be.  I have decided to try choosing the pattern size based on my above-bust measurement, hoping that will give the shoulder effect intended by the designer, and then alter for bust and everything below as required.

Offline Susan in Saint John

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Re: "Fitting" Oversize Garments
« Reply #4 on: July 23, 2018, 03:42:57 PM »
Nice to know I am not alone.

I am wondering as a starting point, if I should work with Sewing Workshop patterns.  Generally, I can tell by the shape of the sleeve cap if it is a natural/fitted or extended shoulder.  Linda Lee is also quite responsive to emailed questions.  I have been working on a Liberty Shirt muslin and perhaps I should go back to it.  I have already done an FBA and a rounded upper back adjustment so it's really the shoulders that are a problem.

Louise Cutting's patterns are another possible starting point but I've had less success with her patterns and my shape.  She of course is available here to answer questions.  Perhaps I should post a question there.

Offline Meg

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Re: "Fitting" Oversize Garments
« Reply #5 on: July 23, 2018, 05:32:58 PM »
I saw "somewhere" that the reason some of us liked the Habibe Acikgoz Bold & Beautiful patterns is that they're a better fit around the neck, shoulders, and upper chest, with the loose, flowy aspect below.  Having the sleeve head area nearer your actual shoulder line helps the garment not look like you've got on a garment 6 sizes too big, I think.

Offline Susan in Saint John

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Re: "Fitting" Oversize Garments
« Reply #6 on: July 23, 2018, 05:46:11 PM »
I have made the Simple Tunic twice.  I still need to work on the shoulders so they fit better.  That is another reasonable starting point.

I did post on the Louise Cutting thread as well.