Author Topic: How would you sew this neckline facing?  (Read 1027 times)

Offline sewvt

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How would you sew this neckline facing?
« on: July 02, 2018, 11:09:36 PM »
This is a top I'm asked to duplicate.  It's a web photo from a shopping site and is no longer available so it's the only clue I have.  It looks pretty straight forward, with facings applied to the outside of the garment.  The front body looks like it's cut as one piece.  I can see a seam down the center front of the front neck facing and it looks like the bottom of the facing is top-stitched over the small gathered area below it, but I don't see top stitching along any other edges.  If the facing is stitched to the edges of the neckline and folded to the right side, how do you fasten down that other edge without top stitching (other than hand slip stitching)?  I think I'm probably missing something obvious here....  ::)  Ideas?


Offline angelsweb

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2018, 01:41:23 AM »
Since it's ready to wear, I really doubt the facing was hand sewn. My guess is that it is edge-stitched really close to the edge.

Offline Lisanne

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #2 on: July 03, 2018, 07:09:56 AM »
If you double up the size of the image you can see topstitching on both inner and outer edges, e.g. on the left shoulder (left of photo)
« Last Edit: July 03, 2018, 07:13:10 AM by Lisanne »
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Offline sewvt

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #3 on: July 03, 2018, 04:46:27 PM »
Yes, I agree that RTW wouldn't be handsewn, although I could do that if it looked best.  :)

Good spotting, Lisanne.  I tried enlarging it but it pixelated too much to really see detail.  I think you're probably right, though.  Very fine thread and close to the edge topstitching is probably the answer.

Thank you both!

Offline CCL

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #4 on: July 03, 2018, 06:10:50 PM »
SewVT - I am coming in late, but I zoomed in also, similar to what Lisanne did, and noticed topstitching close to the edge over the gathers on the center front piece.

Thanks for sharing it, what a lovely treatment.

Offline vtmartha

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #5 on: July 03, 2018, 06:40:15 PM »
I can see what Lisanne’s referring to but the photo resolution is really lacking.  If I were making that for me, I would machine stitch the facing to the RS and then hand stitch the inner facing to the WS.  That would be after checking to make sure such was possible, not having sewn that sort of thing in awhile.  Top stitching would be nice but I’m not sure I could do an adequate job of that.

Offline sewvt

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #6 on: July 03, 2018, 11:08:52 PM »
It's aggravating not to be able to zoom in clearly, but it could be worse.  It's a pretty basic top, not one with a thousand finicky details to figure out.  I spotted that one bit of top-stitching over the gathers but I didn't see more.  Now I think Lisanne has convinced me that I can see a bit at the upper part of the shoulder on the left side and maybe on the inside of the back.   :))

Martha, I hadn't thought of that.  I think I'll make a couple of samples and see what works and looks best.  Always good to have options!  Now, to find a border print that will work for this.  I'm told it should be blue with flowers, as similar as possible to the picture.  We all know how that works, right?  There will be no border prints to be found, especially not in blue with flowers! 

Offline Susan in Saint John

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #7 on: July 05, 2018, 10:58:00 PM »
This is an effective use of a border print.  Isn't this basically a garment with the facing sewn on the opposite way to usual?  I have seen instructions in sewing books -- I think you'll find it in the Tunic Bible https://www.amazon.ca/Tunic-Bible-Interchangeable-Ready-Wear/dp/1617453560 .  The trick is that you have to reverse the seam allowance somewhere under the facing.  I.e., you sew seams right sides together until you get into the facing.  Then you stop, clip and sew the rest of the way wrong sides together, and press the seam allowances open.

I have seen this reverse facing technique where the seams were sewn completely right sides together and then the facings were applied with right side to wrong side and turned to the right side.  It can be a little untidy at the edges.  Adding piping would solve that problem.

Offline sewvt

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #8 on: July 06, 2018, 02:18:12 PM »
Quote
The trick is that you have to reverse the seam allowance somewhere under the facing.  I.e., you sew seams right sides together until you get into the facing.  Then you stop, clip and sew the rest of the way wrong sides together, and press the seam allowances open.

I can't seem to picture this - are you sewing the shoulder seams together?  Is the facing already attached when you do this?  I've done the top-stitching method (the second one you mentioned) many times and I got curious if there was another way when I couldn't spot top stitching in the photo.

That said, nothing but sample bits will happen until a border fabric is found and approved.  As predicted...  There is a reason why I sew for very few people!

Thanks for weighing in, Susan.  I don't have the tunic bible. I do have a gazillion other sewing books - have I looked in any of them?  Of course not.  If it's not on the web, I forget all about "real" books.  ::)  I will go do that now.
 

Offline Melinda_B

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #9 on: July 06, 2018, 11:37:43 PM »
The way 'I' would do the facing is a technique for Madeira Applique that I learned from Martha Pullen many years ago.

As the facing is symmetrical, fold it in half right sides together (fold at CB and CF) and stitch around the outside seam with water soluble thread in the needle.  Turn out right side and press, firstly with a dry iron, then with lots of steam.  This puts the outside seam allowances inside, and they match perfectly.  Steam ironing dissolves the water soluble thread, so when it's cooled down you should be able to simply open it up and pull out the bobbin thread.  I will often lightly starch the facing as well, to help it keep it's shape as the grainline changes direction around the neckline.

Place over your neckline, with the facing on the inside of the garment (I think it's right side of facing to wrong side of inner garment, but you'd have to check), and stitch your neckline seams.  Grade and clip the seam allowances.  Flip the facing over to the top/right side and press.  Topstitch the edges of the facing using an edge stitch foot - all the seam allowances are already perfectly tucked under.

I can't find an online tutorial for this, and I'm away from home so can't post a sample either. 
« Last Edit: July 06, 2018, 11:54:31 PM by Melinda_B »
Melinda

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Personal Blog - https://melbrennan.com/

Offline Lisanne

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #10 on: July 07, 2018, 05:39:52 AM »
Good description Melinda.
I learned it from Martha Pullen too, a video in one of their very expensive on-line classes, but I don't know of publicly available ones from them.
It’s also in Chapter 7 of the Heirloom sewing class at Craftsy - much cheaper but again not free
https://www.craftsy.com/sewing/classes/heirloom-sewing-essential-techniques/45779
Does this bring you joy, calm, confidence  :D  if not, try something else.

https://sewingplums.com - comments on wardrobes, patterns, style, fit
https://uk.pinterest.com/sewingplums/ - style images
https://aimforquality.wordpress.com - good basic sewing techniques
https://easyjackets.wordpress.com - no need for tailoring, unless you want to
https://helpwithsewingpatterninstructions.wordpress.com/2017/03/01/first-blog-post/ - Peggy Sagers sew-alongs

Offline sewvt

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #11 on: July 07, 2018, 12:07:49 PM »
What a great idea for making the facing edges perfectly even  :applause2:.  Thanks Melinda!  The only method I knew of was basically stay stitching around those edges very evenly and then using the stay stitching as the fold line to turn the edges under.  That does work, assuming the stay stitching is very accurate, but this is better!

Offline vtmartha

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #12 on: July 07, 2018, 11:32:11 PM »
Very interesting!  Thank you, Melinda!  So glad I have Craftsy Unlimited and was able to watch this.  It’s not a class I would have considered purchasing but, now that I’ve seen part of it, I’d like to watch the rest.

Offline Melinda_B

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #13 on: July 08, 2018, 01:32:37 AM »
It's a brilliant technique, I've used it any time I needed matching sides, not just for applique.  And it works really well for doll sized articles too.   :D
Melinda

Perth, Australia
Personal Blog - https://melbrennan.com/

Offline sewvt

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #14 on: July 08, 2018, 05:24:35 PM »
Knowing the right keyword makes all the difference.  I found this video on YouTube, for anyone interested without access to Craftsy.  Looks like the same principle.  Even if the intended project never gets off the ground, it's nice to have another tool in the bag of tricks!

Offline sewvt

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #15 on: August 07, 2018, 05:02:08 PM »
OK, I just have to say that the Madeira Applique technique is genius.  I finally got to the point of trying this and it's magic - perfectly matched facing edges.   :applause2:  Thank you, everyone who recommended it.   :notworthy:

Offline Melinda_B

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #16 on: August 07, 2018, 10:14:03 PM »
Oh good!  I'm so glad it worked.  How is your blouse recreation going?
Melinda

Perth, Australia
Personal Blog - https://melbrennan.com/

Offline sewvt

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #17 on: August 08, 2018, 03:31:40 PM »
Well, I know it can be done and it fits the intended person well.  This is a double border batik from stash, used to work out details.  Some day it may get repeated if that perfect floral border print is found, but it works for the moment.   :D


Offline Melinda_B

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #18 on: August 08, 2018, 10:42:58 PM »
That's lovely!  The colours in the batik are perfect for this
Melinda

Perth, Australia
Personal Blog - https://melbrennan.com/

Offline sewvt

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #19 on: August 08, 2018, 11:28:06 PM »
Thank you.  It was fun to figure it out and to learn about that applique method.

Offline sdBev

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #20 on: August 09, 2018, 12:42:05 AM »
Sewvt

Very nicely done.
sdBev

Offline CCL

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #21 on: August 09, 2018, 12:22:46 PM »
SewVt, it looks brilliant! 

And thank you, Melinda and Lisanne, I am now hankering to try the technique, though I have way too many plans for things to sew and desperately need to complete a few in order to declutter the "bright idea" section of my brain.

Offline Melinda_B

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #22 on: August 09, 2018, 01:14:32 PM »
SewVt, it looks brilliant! 

And thank you, Melinda and Lisanne, I am now hankering to try the technique, though I have way too many plans for things to sew and desperately need to complete a few in order to declutter the "bright idea" section of my brain. 

I totally understand that feeling!  Or at least sketch them out, with notes and ideas, so they're not held in my head.
Melinda

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Personal Blog - https://melbrennan.com/

Offline vtmartha

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #23 on: August 10, 2018, 11:53:39 AM »
I echo everyone else here!  It’s a great top and I’d like to try the technique myself.

Offline sewvt

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Re: How would you sew this neckline facing?
« Reply #24 on: August 10, 2018, 01:12:39 PM »
Thanks again, everyone.  In the process, I finally realized what Susan meant:
Quote
The trick is that you have to reverse the seam allowance somewhere under the facing.  I.e., you sew seams right sides together until you get into the facing.  Then you stop, clip and sew the rest of the way wrong sides together, and press the seam allowances open.

The center front section above the gathering is sewn wrong sides together to give a finished seam inside the garment.  The CF facing seam is sewn RST as usual and then the facing is sewn on around the neckline with the RS of the facing to the WS of the garment and flipped to the RS to cover the first seam and the gathering line.  Then it's topstitched in place around the edge of the facing.  It's similar with the armscye facings if you're working them in the round.  I just worked this one flat and sewed the shoulder and side seams last to make the final fitting easier since this was essentially a wearable muslin. 
« Last Edit: August 10, 2018, 01:14:53 PM by sewvt »