Author Topic: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top  (Read 7068 times)

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Offline tricia560

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Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« on: June 29, 2011, 06:37:16 PM »
Andrea and I are taking a break from pants for a bit (too frustrating for words!  we're considering just wearing skirts for the rest of our lives) to work on the top half.  It's my turn...

So, I downloaded the Sorbetto tank top from Collette http://www.colettepatterns.com/blog/colette-patterns-news/free-pattern-to-download-the-sorbetto-top, did a FBA, and changed up the front pleat a tiny bit.  The fit isn't bad compared to my RTW tops, but there are a few things I'm not happy with - my front tucks are puckery and not as nice as could be, but they're not my main concern.

So, on the one hand I think the dart I made was TOO big.  I sewed that sucker three times and couldn't get it to look neat and tidy.  On the other hand, I kind of don't think it was big enough--I still have drag lines that scream "look --boobs", and the waist is baggy.  I don't have much of a waist, so I like to make the most of what I have.

So, what do you think?  Is it better than it looks to me, or does it just need tweaking, or is this not the shirt I'm looking for?  ???  LOL.  I'm open to suggestions for improvement.  For my next version I've recopied my pattern and rotated about half of the bust dart to the neck line--I plan to try a couple of small tucks at the neckline that release at the end, and leave out the big center tuck.  If that fails, I may do some gentle gathers at the neckline.  And I'll probably curve the waist shaping a bit more.






Offline sdBev

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #1 on: June 29, 2011, 06:48:33 PM »
Eveyone needs a nice basic shell. I wouldn't give up on this yet.  Is it really shorter in front than the back (at the hem) or is that just the picture?  If it really is shorter, I'd go with bigger dart and maybe rotate part to the center front. Keep in mind that everyone has their own fitting issues. A narrow shoulder adjustment is just a given for me.  Your's may be a shell with front darts coming from the waist.

Offline blue mooney

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2011, 10:09:27 PM »
Tricia - I think you're close, don't give up!

I think you just have the dart/fullness a little too low, and that's causing the strain across the breast in your first photo. Look how much better it looks in the photo where your arms are raised - that has also raised the dart to where it points to your fullest part.

As to fitting around the waist, can you sculpt the side seams a little? Or maybe add vertical darts to bring the bottom half in a little?

I am by no means a fitting expert, so I defer in advance to those who are!

Offline AnnRowley

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2011, 09:14:00 AM »
You need to do a FBA - full bust adjustment.  This will give you more room at bust level, increase the dart depth and lengthen the front.

 You need do that first before you make any other alterations.

Offline tricia560

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2011, 11:22:26 AM »
Thanks for the feed back!

Bev--yes, I really do want a basic shell.  I'm tired of always wearing knits because they fit!  I may try tiny waist darts next time, but I still want it to fit over my head so I'm reluctant to go too far.  Hmm, or maybe elastic for a faux smocking effect.  That has potential.

blue mooney - do you think I should point the dart upward?  It seemed weird to me that it's pretty much straight.  my first go at this shell had the shoulder straps too long, and shortening improved the fit alot by bringing the dart up even this much, so I see what you're saying.

Ann--I've already done a FBA and my dart seems ginormous--more than 3" across.  If I do another, do I keep adding to the same dart?  How big a dart is too big?

I have to paint the kitchen today  ::) but I'm hoping to get back to this shirt this weekend.  I desperately need new summer tops for work. :D

Offline Doris W. in TN

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2011, 02:22:23 PM »

Ann--I've already done a FBA and my dart seems ginormous--more than 3" across.  If I do another, do I keep adding to the same dart?  How big a dart is too big?

I agree with needing more room in the bust.  It really is too tight as it is.  Go ahead and make a more ginormous side dart.   You can always rotate some of it down to a vertical dart.    Once that is taken care of,  the scoop neckline looks big - notice the folds - but the FBA make take care of that.     If it doesn't, perhaps  a smaller size for starters will fit better in the shoulders/upper chest area, but you'll then have to make a larger FBA.   

Offline Elona

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #6 on: June 30, 2011, 03:47:48 PM »
I suspect that this cute and well-designed pattern would work well cut on the bias--minus the lengthwise tucks. 

Offline vtmartha

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #7 on: June 30, 2011, 03:57:25 PM »
Tricia, if a single dart is too big, you can make two darts, one above the other.  That sometimes looks better.

Offline AnnRowley

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #8 on: June 30, 2011, 05:56:30 PM »
Ann--I've already done a FBA and my dart seems ginormous--more than 3" across.  If I do another, do I keep adding to the same dart?  How big a dart is too big?

I'm no expert on photo fitting - but I think you do need a deeper dart.

My eye would suggest that you start it lower down - perhaps half way between armhole and waist, and the point it up towards the bust point.
Fold the dart out before you draw the side seamline - you'll end up with an odd looking shape, but that's OK.


I suspect the the neckline will correct itself once you've got more room over the bust.

Offline lca

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #9 on: June 30, 2011, 08:44:50 PM »
I have to do a 5" FBA.  Yes, you get a big dart and that can be tricky to sew just right, but it really helps. You do not have enough length in the front indicating that it is being pulled up by your bust.  You do need a bigger FBA. If the FBA  doesn't correct the neck, I would go down a size. It seems too wide especially after you allow for the seam allowances.
« Last Edit: June 30, 2011, 08:47:43 PM by lca »

Offline ejvc

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #10 on: June 30, 2011, 09:32:36 PM »
From what I can see, I think you need a bigger FBA and a possibly a smaller size as lca says.
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Offline shams

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #11 on: July 01, 2011, 01:01:37 AM »
Ginormous, Tricia? Three inches?!  lol 

When I made a fairly fitted Burda top recently, my dart was at least 8" from leg to leg.  Yes, one can get fancy and move it into multiple darts, or a princess seam, etc.  I do that sometimes, but in this case I left it as one dart (because it was a busy print) and it fit me really well.  :)

Offline tricia560

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #12 on: July 01, 2011, 02:23:13 AM »
holy cow--well, 3" did seem ginormous compared to the piddly little darts that usually come on patterns, but 8" beats me and then some  :o  

I think I'm going to try the next smaller size with a bigger fba as seems to be the consensus.  I'll break it into two or three darts tho, as a kind of design element.  This fabric is kind of stiff, and I think the shirt is going to need something with more drape, but it was free and I'm trying to get close to the right fit before I cut my good fabric (which is red/white/blue and was meant to be worn on Monday, lol)

btw shams - do you have any shirt patterns you've found work well for large busts?  I know I'll always have to do an FBA, but some styles still look better on me than others.  My favorite rtw is a button down shirt with gathers right under the bust in a kind of empire sorta style.  I'm hoping to work my way up to recreating that shirt--if I ever do, I'll make it in 10 colors and be happy for years :-D
« Last Edit: July 01, 2011, 02:27:40 AM by tricia560 »

Offline shams

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #13 on: July 01, 2011, 03:45:44 AM »
Tricia, my favorite t-shirt is the sewing workshop teagarden t.  But I find that most fitted tops with set-in sleeves work best for me.  I don't like empire lines under my bust.  At all.  In fact, I don't like gathers anywhere near my bust, so I especially don't like the silhouette that is popular now with the round neckline band with the gathers into that or peasant styles, etc.  Dolman sleeves aren't flattering for me, or dropped sleeves.  Having said that, I sometimes do wear those styles, but I am aware that they aren't the most flattering silhouette.  :)

Offline lydia

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #14 on: July 01, 2011, 02:01:54 PM »
I know I probably sound like the proverbial broken record, but if you have access to the Singer 'Perfect Fit' book, the FBA will be a piece of cake.  Anytime a top garment pulls up in the front, it is time for an FBA..............Lydia  Your design of more and smaller tucks is a smart idea.
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Offline tricia560

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #15 on: July 06, 2011, 05:33:23 PM »
Here I go again!  ;D  I sewed up two more versions this weekend, and I would have posted them sooner, but I had to wait for Andrea.  My husband does not understand why I feel the need to take pictures of myself wearing a half sewn tank top...

Anyhow, the first version is made with a thrifted sheet, and will be a pajama top.  This version has a larger bust adjustment, and I started with a sz 14 neckline, going out to a 16 under the arms.  Then I did a larger FBA than before, and rotated part of the resultant dart down to the longer more angled dart.  I hadn't meant for this version to have a pleat, and had cut that off the pattern piece, but when I tried it on I found I had too much fabric and the neckline was too wide for my liking (seems to be a common issue with this pattern).  I plan to trim the center pleat in a little lace, add some lace to the bottom hem, and trim the neckline and arms in yellow or green bias.  It'll make a nice enough pajama top.


I'm not happy with the deep pleats that form where the lower dart is--I probably either need to incorporate more fabric into that dart, or take out a second waist dart.


Also, I think my darts are pointing at least an inch too low, and my right shoulder may be lower than my left.  And I need SOME kind of waist definition.  Even in the back:


So, after this top, I traced the same pattern as used for the pajama top (it's close enough to right that I'm not going to risk destroying it!) and rotated that lower dart up to the shoulder, then cut that out in a linen I had laying around:


This is Andrea's favorite version.  I'm inclined to agree.  In this linen, I'd make the shoulder a gather instead of a dart if I do it again.  But I think this one will get worn outside the house, if only to the grocery store.


The dart is still too low, obviously, since I didn't notice that problem until Andrea took these pics.  ::)

Here's the back, for good measure:


So, what do you think?  I feel like I'm closer, and I'm learning what it takes to fit my body, but boy I wish I had a shirt I could feel proud to wear to work.  :P

Offline sdBev

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #16 on: July 06, 2011, 10:24:40 PM »
I can't wait to read what the others have to say.  From where I'm sitting, this is much much much improved.  I'd finish and wear it, especially the green linen.  I think the back is close to perfect.  You may need to fit the back and front separately (something which my SG Angels have made me aware of only recently.)   I might want to remove a little more from armscye to waist in the back.  I'm OK with the front horizontal bust darts, as far as placement. I think that I would smooth a little from above the bust into the horizontal bust dart.  But if you change the shoulder dart into gathers at the shoulder line, it will look like it is intended to be that way. (WOW and another version of the Collette Sorbetto Tank Top).  Really, I think I'd try to smooth the excess both above and below into the bust dart. Might extend it another 1/2-3/4" -- you don't want the point of the dart to go all the way to your apex.  Or you can just ignore everthing I've written after " much much improved"  and wait to see what the real experts recommend.  Truly, I think this is LOOKING GOOD!.

Offline KathrynT

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #17 on: July 06, 2011, 10:31:46 PM »
Yes, much better!  I'm also not an expert, but I think both darts need to be longer, the bust darts up half an inch and maybe an inch longer and the top one about an inch and half longer.  That should get rid of the the little puddles of fabric (which only a sewer would notice).  I wonder if shaping the back piece more at the sides would give more waist definition without using to more darts.  The green one especially looks almost there.  Well done.  What a useful TNT this will be!

Offline sdBev

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #18 on: July 07, 2011, 02:59:27 AM »
  What a useful TNT this will be!
Oh Yes!  She's got 4 or more versions:
center pleat
no center pleat
eased front to shoulders
Change the center pleat to
   gathers
   multiple pleats
Change necklines
   shallow scoop (current)
   deeper scoops
   V-neck (of various depths)
  Square neck (of various depths
Collar treatments
   ???


Offline Pipsy

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #19 on: July 07, 2011, 07:10:16 AM »
I agree with everything Bev has said.  I would die and go to heaven if I could get any top to fit me as well in the back. I have a very broad back and wide shoulders. Like Bev, whom I seem to recall is smaller with slopped shoulders, I only recently, though this forum, thought to use two different sizes.  I haven't had a change to try it out yet but think it may be the answer to problems I have always had. I do not have large (proportionately) well formed breasts, yet I can see where you have very much improved your darts. Kathryn's suggestion seems right on but rather than a too long dart extending into the breast you may want to go back to two darts.  Did you ever try a small one coming down from the arms eye?  Depending on the fabric sometimes I can steam out those puddles that can occur with darts. Keep in mind that the sleeve bindings if applied carefully will also bring up a bit of puddle - unfortunately can also make worse if the arms eye stretches so I would stay stitch the sleeves and neck line before you handle the fabric too much.

I really like the green top. I tend to like longer tops so waste a lot of fabric cutting long and cutting off at hemming so I don't know if I would raise up in the front right from the envelop.  I have downloaded this pattern and have fabric to make it up. Just have to finish sewing my new grandson's blankets up.  ::)
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Offline ejvc

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #20 on: July 07, 2011, 08:50:29 AM »
I personally (don't shoot me!) think it is still pulling a little at the bust in the front and might need a very slightly bigger fba.  Look at the front hem, it's still rising up slightly, and it should be parallel, plus there are wrinkles from under the bust.  I am sorry. It is MUCH better, and nearly there.  But since it's the critique board, I hope you don't mind.
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Offline vtmartha

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #21 on: July 07, 2011, 10:41:42 AM »
I agree with Elizabeth so you'd have to shoot both of us.  ;)  There isn't enough length to go over the bust which results in the front hem going forward rather than hanging straight down.  Sometimes it helps to commit to making a 'real' muslin, one that you can cut apart rather than rescuing for wearing at home.  Then you can draw fitting lines on the muslin and make sure they are level when wearing it by slicing it open and piecing.  I wouldn't say anything but you are making great progress and it would be a shame to stop too soon.

Offline marciae

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #22 on: July 07, 2011, 12:22:46 PM »
You're making excellent progress - like Bev said - I'm wondering if you start with a different size in the front - and Martha - making a 'true' muslin really helps.  AND - I'm one that hates to make a 'real' muslin - but after all these years I'm finally making real muslins on something that I'm having a lot of fitting problems with.  ;D ;D  Once you get the muslin done and fitted it's a nice 'pattern' and easy to place on the fabric!  You're sooooooo close.
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Offline tricia560

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #23 on: July 07, 2011, 04:00:16 PM »
Thanks for the feedback, both positive and negative  ;D  I'm pretty happy (80%+) with the green shirt, but I agree it can be better.  One thing I hope to do tonight is alter the shoulders on both shirts and see how that changes the hang.  Since I'm not 100% on the green one, I may try out some waist shaping ideas on it; I have enough of that fabric to make one more shirt, so I don't mind sacrificing this one.

I'd SOOOOO like to work on this until it's a TNT, and then try all those variations.  I'd also like to add a sleeve to it - my plan for that is to borrow a sleeve and armscye from another pattern and trace it on to this one.  I think that should work better than trying to draft a sleeve to fit this.

Offline tricia560

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #24 on: July 11, 2011, 07:24:37 PM »
Here's an actual finished version (well--almost.  Based on Andrea's feed back, I'm going to add two more rows of shirring tonight)  I took the "green shirt" version, rotated the bust dart down to the hem line, and then shirred the waist--first time I've tried that, and I believe it won't be the last.  So easy, so fun! :laugh:  This has gathers at the shoulder instead of the dart, and I do like that better.  I think this shirred version might look nice in the linen, what do you think?





I need to press the heck out of the bias trim because it has a slight tendency to flip under.

Thanks so much for all your advice so far, and I don't mind any constructive criticism of this version either--I can always improve :-)

Offline sdBev

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #25 on: July 11, 2011, 07:40:00 PM »
What's really nice, is you have another version out of the same pattern!  I'm not offering any critiques.  This looks to be a different style than the Sobretto and I'm sure there's room for improvement.  I've rarely made anything that couldn't have been made a little different a little better. So I say, wear this one with pride! .. and then on to the next version.  Besides, I like you fabric. 

PS still like to see you tweak the fit of the green and finish it off.  You had a nice start on it.

Offline BetsyV

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #26 on: July 12, 2011, 01:23:50 AM »
Cute version, Tricia! I think I'd snug up that shirring a little bit to control the fullness better - but I must say I love the idea as a variation!

Offline Qshift

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #27 on: February 28, 2012, 12:52:06 AM »
Looks like you made a lot of progress :D  I can't help with any of the fitting issues, but can tell you that the Butterick patterns by Connie Crawford have sizing for us  larger busted gals.  I've been playing with one shirt (screwed up the collar) and it fit without any changes.  BTW, the dart in that pattern was huge.  Oh, well ;)

Offline Qshift

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Re: Critique: Sorbetto Tank Top
« Reply #28 on: February 28, 2012, 12:57:33 AM »
Clarification, the dart in the Connie Crawford patterns for D cups is huge.   

 

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