EmmaOneSock fabric and service

[joan71]

Just in case you haven't checked the website lately, Linda has posted some lovely new lycra knits and that wonderful doubleknit of rayon/poly/nylon.

I am tempted by the olive double knit.....coordinates nicely with some other fabrics on my stash shelves.

[BetsyV]

Linings: Run, don't walk to Linda's website. Linings

Versace; Dolce & Gabbana; Nanette Lepore, more.

[Robin]

I have been sewing up a storm lately and my stash is coming under control.
So I treated myself to something special.

I should have ordered a swatch first, but, what the heck.  It's on sale.

I am going to make a jacket out of it.
woo hoo!

[BetsyV]

Ooooooh, Robin, you go girl! I've looked at that several times! You must report when you get it, if it looks like the EOS pics! nd of course - of the finished piece ...

[joan71]

Robin, You will look gorgeous in that fabric and those colors.  Got any idea for the the style of jacket?

I love making jackets, I think they are what makes an ensemble/outfit.  Your last 2 jackets have been real winners.

Joan

[KathyB]

I have lusted after that fabric too. If it is from Linda, you know it will be quality. The fabric has a seasonless quality to it.

[Robin]

Oh heaven help me.  She's got coordinating fabrics listed along side each other- have you seen that?
How will I resist?

I am thinking a simple jacket- this fabric will do all the talking.
yum.

[BetsyV]

I'm thrilled about it. Although I have to say, I emailed Linda once asking if a solid she had would go with the print I wanted, and she answered me right away. Now that the Pantone colors are usually listed, it isn't quite the leap of faith it was.

Of course, now I need that $20 Pantone color guide ... hmmm ... maybe I DO want something for Christmas!

[Robin]

Betsy, you and me both.

A Panton color Guide is on my list now, too.

I went back and ordered the blue knit that goes with the Cavalli fabric.
And then I buckled under and bought a couple pieces of black and white knits.

Well, I am splurging a bit.  I just got my bonus for completing a big project at work and I saved a little bit aside for fabrics.
It sure feels good to treat myself!!  I like being spolied!!

[joan71]

Robin, I assume you will be making a jkt. from the Cavelli and the blue for a top?.....so what will you wear for the pant/skirt?  I find many times that when I make a jacket from one of the very distinctive fabrics, I find it hard to select the bottom garment.  I will be anxious to see your Cavelli when it is done.

Joan

[Robin]

Yes, Joan, I plan to make a jacket from the Cavalli. 
And the blue will be a top.
And I know what you mean about coordinating bottoms.  On her site, Linda has posted a very interesting black stripe that would make nice pants.
But since I will use a pattern with princess seams I am afraid a stripe might look odd.
So hopefully I'll have something in my stash.

If not, I will have to look and see is available at Michael's Fabrics.  I love those Zegnas.
I used up a bunch of it sewing muslins and now I might need to order more.

I really love that Cavalli.  I hope it is not too much green for me.  Green is not so good on me.

[joan71]

Robin, Ooooooh, that color green is a biggie in my wardrobe, but I positively cannot not buy anymore fabrics for jackets, although I was tempted.  I really do need to reduce my stash.  I have that pant pattern on my to buy list, not sure what fabric I will use.

Joan

[lessalt]

Robin I so love both of your choices and have been admiring them for some time. I keep hoping they will be sold out so they will no longer tempt. I think the brocade will make a jacket you will wear for a long time, the print is so rich. The black and white is also a real classy piece. I love the coordinately fabric feature although it will cost us.

[cmarie12]

I always cruise Linda's site but haven't purchased much lately...some due to pricing, some due to the fabrics she's posted and how they wouldn't work with my wardrobe needs but this weekend I picked up a few goodies because she has some amazing pieces up right now.  If you haven't been by in the last few days I suggest you mosey on over!  She has some really kewl pieces up!

www.emmaonesock.com

[Carolyn]

For those of you who have bought the 11 oz. jersey knit, will it work with this pattern?

I'm shopping for a dress to my daughter's graduation.  I plan to order the teal or the coral and make the sleeveless, v-neck version with the shirred waist.  I was wondering if the fabric was heavy enough for the skirt to hang right.

It will be the first time I've seen my ex-husband since we separated nearly a year ago, and I have to look great.  (I want him to have lots of regret!)  I know that's terrible since it should be about all of my daughter's accomplishments.  Still, I want to look my best.

By the way, I live in Prattville, AL where the tornado hit yesterday.  Fortunately, noone was seriously injured, but alot of homes have been destroyed.  It hit about 2 miles away from my home; hit the Walmart and a large subdivision behind it.  Keep us in your thoughts and prayers.

[corinne kelly]

Yes, I think so, but you know Linda will send swatches. I think up to five...HTH
ETA there is a clickable link, right hand corner of each fabric page to "request a swatch"
I know that you will knock his socks off-Corinne

[joan71]

Carolyn, since that fabric is on the light weight side, you might want to add more oomph to the skirt.  The design sketch for the pattern seems to show more fullness than is actually there.  The photo more accurately shows the drape and volume better.
The skirt pattern is 2 pieces(front and back) cut on the fold with the straight grain falling at the centers of the front and back and the bias fullnes falling at the sides.  To get a better drape of the skirt here is what I did:

  I folded the skirt pattern piece vertically down the center and placed that fold on the straight of grain and cut 4 pieces instead of 2 pieces,  adding s/a's.

Having the grainline in the center of each piece is important to have the fullnes fall evenly around the body.  If you sew per the patten, you will have more of the fullness on the sides.  If you have Power Sewing Step By Step by Sandra Betzina, check out page 95-96 for examples of grainline for a gore skirt.

It will make a lovely spring dress for you, even if you decide to follow the pattern construction for the skirt.  Many sewists have made it and have been very pleased.

Joan

[Carolyn]

Thanks, Joan.  That's a great idea.  I have made it in double knit and in slinky and it worked well as is.  However, with a lighter fabric, your idea may work much better.  I love this pattern.  I have gotten alot of compliments on both dresses and I think it takes 10 pounds off!  I may request a swatch.  I hate to pay $18.00 a yard only to find out the fabric won't work.

[Robin]

I sewed a V-neck top out of the 11 oz.  I found it to be a little light so I made a double front and I am very happy with the top.
Personally, I'd want just a little more heft.
But get the swatch - you'll know for sure when you have a sample to touch.

I am sewing almost a whole SWAP out of fabric from Linda and patterns from Bernina My Label.  It's on my blog if you wanna see.
I have cut the coat out of the houndstooth (amazingly beautiful and spongy) and pants & skirt out of the choc. brown double knit.  such wonderful fabrics.

[Carolyn]

Robin,
I can't believe your working on two swaps at one time!  I've been trying to be more focused on purchasing fabric and developing a more cohesive wardrobe, but haven't been disciplined or organized enough to do a SWAP yet.  Anyway, I loved your blog and pictures.

I noticed your Rayon Jersey top, and I think you're right.  It probably does not have enough body.  I ordered swatches so we'll see.

[Carolyn]

I received my swatches in record time and decided the knit was just too lightweight.  However, I did purchase this fabric:

I would have purchased more, but now that I'm single, I have to think twice before buying high end fabrics.  I plan to make a wrap top from Kwik Sew and wear with cream colored pants or skirt.

[Robin]

Oh that is so pretty!  I have noticed it many times, too.
It looks like a great color palette for you.

And yep, that 11 oz jersey was just a teensy bit on the light side.  You could have done it, but I am glad you checked the swatch.

[Carolyn]

I can't believe the wonderful service from Linda at Emmaonesock.  I just received a personal e-mail from Linda saying that due to her schedule, she probably wouldn't ship the fabric until Wed.  However, if I needed it sooner, just to let her know and she would send it on.  I've only ordered once before from her, but with service like that, I'll be ordering more.  She gets a Customer Service Award from me!

[Robin]

Yes, I've had the same experience.  She is the type of person who is really on top of things.  I ordered several pieces recently when she was really busy and I wanted her help to find more coordinating pieces.  She had to order one of my choices and she had other fabric coming in that she recommended.  It got a little confusing, be she followed through on everything and I am delighted with my purchases. 

[Karendee]

I haven"t ordered from her yet, but I will. I adore the fabrics on her site. Glad you all had such good experiences.

Karendee

[WesternWilson]

I adore Emma One Sock! Someday I am going to tackle a really beautiful evening gown in one of her over-the-top specialty fabrics.

[mfedna]

She's had the greatest sweater knits of any I have seen. I am not so keen on 'speciality' fabric these days though she's got fabulous speciality fabrics. Last year she really hit it with the sweater knits -- I am waiting to see what she chooses for this year.

[WesternWilson]

On the subject of service, I have dealt with a couple of online fabric houses for just that reason...the great service. I rely heavily on the online store owner to help me coordinate fabrics; their taste is usually impeccable and they have access to fabrics I would otherwise never see or think of. I have found that most bricks and mortar shops try very hard, but often are missing the one fabric I need to complete a set of fabrics for a project (my favourite in any one grouping has usually been all used up in making charm packs or display quilts, sigh). And I hate driving to one shop after another to find that final fabric. When I order online I can usually quite quickly find all the fabrics I am after, and the owner, as with EmmaOneSock's often helps me though the processm and has great fabric handling advice. I like that!

[DeniseM]

I am also an EOS devotee. Her fabrics are beautiful and her service superb. Some of them are getting on the pricey side but I don't mind paying a bit extra for the great fabrics she stocks.

[Terri K]

Wasn't sure whether to start a new topic under patterns or ask the question here.    There's a new feature on EOS (located on the menu) called Inspirations where a pop up window contains pattern suggestions and variations for specific fabrics and styles.   It's written by Shannon Gifford and edited by Linda, the designer and EOS owner.     If you haven't checked this out, it's worth your time to explore the suggestions they have posted.

My question comes re the modification of either of two Marci Tilton jacket patterns posted for the sweater coat, under the Sweater Knits Inspiration.   Excellent suggestions for an elegant "keep it simple" style to show off great EOS knits.   This would be so fast and easy to make too Here's the fashion illustration of the mod:

Shannon suggests using either Vogue 7907 or Vogue 8430, although both patterns for wovens, since they are loose fitting, they "are perfect for adapting to this style." Here are her instructions: Use the basic pattern pieces, eliminating the facings and any piecing instructions, to create this simple style. Lengthen the pattern to end at the upper thigh or longer, and taper the sleeves slightly at the wrist."

My question is regarding using a sweater knit that is loosely knit, like a hand knit - where would you place the pieces?   I want to try this since I've got a thick chunky one and a thin angora type knit  that are both candidates but need to understand how to finish the edges so they don't ravel.   Thanks your help.   

*Added - I also like the way this Chloe sweater coat on Neiman Marcus site is made using the ribs  horizontally and then the sleeve is so interesting the way it bells over the snug rib cuff.
 

[joan71]

I dunno', Terri about using those two patterns for sweater knits as Shannon describes.  Why don't you ask her to show us an example of a completed garment?  V7907 seems to me would need facings, and 8430 fabric suggested for the pattern is a felted/double cloth type.  My experience with EOS sweater knits would be iffy with the wrong side showing. 
I have several EOS sweater knits that I bought in a couple of bundles many moons ago.  Have shared some with my sewing friends and some I have made Loes's cardigans with zips using with various necklines.  I did use one of the loosely knitted/soft and drapable ones on using this pattern.  That collar is folded and serged to the body of the sweater.
Keep us posted, please....I still have more to use.

Joan

[emelle]

Terri, very interesting question re: cutting and finishing a sweater knit coat like in the inspirations piece on EOS.

I have a few RTW like this look and went to investigate....all of these sweater jackets/coats have pieces that were knit to size with bound off edges and then the pieces were sewn together...just as I would do if I had knit them myself....no cut edges of sweater knit fabric.

I assume the question is for the front fold back collar area (not the side seams e.g.) and I guess you could attach/sew/serge some ultra light weight knit fusible tape to the front cut edge, turn and stitch down to finish.....there has to be some finish or the cut edge will obviously ravel.

You could treat it like a steek edge (although in some areas you would be cutting across the knit, not parallel to the stitch line) and pick up stitches or add like some Nordic sweater treatments, add a ribbon and stitch and turn.....

So, will be interested in other's ideas because I have some of these sweater knits in my stash too......ML

[ShannonG4d]

Terri and everyone.....

A lot will depend on the actual knit you use. A very loosely knit piece will require different techniques than a denser knit. 

For the inspiration piece, as you surmised, we looked for simple but elegant styles.  This particular inspiration was taken directly from a high end ready to wear garment.  The ready to wear garment was knit to shape, so edge finishes were not an issue.  For us to cut and sew is a different story:)  I've done edges in a variety of ways.  If the knit has a good, stable selvedge, I manipulate the pattern so my longest desired edge is on that selvedge.  That's what I recommend for this particular garment, adjusting the pattern or the lay of the fabric so that the front center edge is on the selvedge, thereby eliminating the need to worry about finishing that long edge.

To finish the cross-grain edges, you have options.  If you know how to crochet a simple edge from a single crochet, you can make a very clean edge using that stitch.  Begin by cutting the pieces so that you have about an inch of seam allowance.  Run a double row of machine zigzag exactly where you want the edge to be located, then trim off the excess, leaving about 1/4" from the double zigzag.  Then, using yarn pulled directly from the knit in question, or a matching yarn, work the single crochet along the edge.  It really doesn't take much time....no more than a hand hem....and is a subtle and beautiful way to finish the edge. If you don't crochet, use the same concept by pulling yarn from the scraps and applying to the edge with a buttonhole stitch. I did a different style of coat a few years ago from a sweater knit and edged it in a long-fiber yarn, creating a maribou effect.  That feathery look is a bit dated for today's wear, but the same concept can be used; try a matte finished yarn or a metallic ribbon for something more in tune with today's trends.

You might be able to use a serged edge; test your knit to see if this is possible.  Use a strip of washaway stabilizer, wrapped around the raw edge, to give the serger something to bite into.  In some cases, you might need to hand-baste a stabilizing tape (I use thin satin ribbon) to give the edge enough threads for the serger to catch onto easily.

If you're into contrast, binding from a firmer knit, such as wool jersy or rpl, would be a good option.  You might consider leather binding, purchased fold-over braid, lace, or other trim. 

As for pattern choices, sweater knits really don't like to be fitted too closely to the body.  Sweater knits do not often have good recovery skills, and the strain on the knit from a tight fit will be visible and unpleasant.  For that reason, be sure your pattern has sufficient ease to avoid stretching the knit in an unseemly manner.  A pattern for a woven is perfect for just this reason.  To keep the look as authenitic as possible, cut away any fold-on facings or set aside any facing pieces...you don't need them. I do recommend stitching some sort of stabilizer into the neck edge, and possibly the shoulder seams, to hold the weight of the garment so it will hang properly in those areas.  Again, I use satin ribbon for this, and zigzag it or catch it in a serged seam.  And I prefer to stitch a conventional hand hem, clean-finishing the edges of the knit with rayon seam tape or lace. 

Again, much of what you decide will be determined by the knit in question.  There is a WIDE variety of sweater knit fabric available.  But these techniques will work for most of them:)

Let me know if I can help further!

Shannon

ETA: some returns to separate the paragraphs

[joan71]

Shannon, thank you, thank you,  for lots of very doable suggestions for the edges of sweater knits.  I am printing this to save for reference.

Joan

[Karendee]

Shannon,

Thank you for taking the time to post such a thorough response. It was most helpful.

Karen