Pendleton 49er Jacket Pattern

[Jeanne]

I bought several pieces of washable wool at the Pendelton Woolen Mill last summer and I want to make some of it up like the 49er jackets my Mama and Grandma wore during my childhood.  I have noticed a few people wearing these jackets this fall.  Here is one for sale on the Pendleton site.  I can't seem to locate a pattern with the shoulder pleats.  Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Jeanne

[DeniseM]

Cute jacket - I can't make out the shoulder pleats from the picture. I would look through McCalls and Butterick as they seem to have similar styles.

[twistedangel]

I bought several pieces of washable wool at the Pendelton Woolen Mill last summer and I want to make some of it up like the 49er jackets my Mama and Grandma wore during my childhood.  I have noticed a few people wearing these jackets this fall.  Here is one for sale on the Pendleton site.  I can't seem to locate a pattern with the shoulder pleats.  Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Jeanne

"Maybe" you can rotate the bust dart of a pattern to the shoulder, turn it into a pleat.  Many Vintage 40's patterns had a dart at the shoulder.

You would have to play with it, but it's do-able.

Also, you could search ebay for vintage patterns.

[Jeanne]

I did find out through research that the pleats (one at the sleeve edge of each shoulder) is called a "shoulder flange".   Mama still has one of these wonderful old jackets.  I think I will dig it out next week while I am visiting her and study the cut and construction.  I have studied several that are for sale on ebay but it is a little hard to fully understand (visualize) without getting my hands on the actual garment.

Thanks for your help,

Jeanne

[Liana]

I think you could put the dart into a shoulder pleat, as Krystin said, very easily.  Here's the jacket from Pendleton.

[auntie j]

Jeanne and Liana, I love the 49er jacket that Pendleton has and  found an old pattern, Butterick 7044, that dates to either 1949 or 1950 that is the exact jacket.  You could check e-bay. Although it is easy to duplicate from a loose fiting blouse pattern.  I have seen the jacket at one of the stores and it is very simply made.  The bias pockets and no lining make it go together fast. It looks great in a plaid. 
Marguerite

[Jeanne]

O.K. I am going to show you my "true colors".  When my grandma died in 1975, my mother ask if I wanted any of her jewerly, etc.  I told her the only thing I wanted was her Pendleton jacket.  But my snotty cousin got it instead (oldest daughter of the only son and all that rot.)  But a few months later at the estate auction I got even, I out bid her on the quilts.  I still have the quilts displayed in my home, 31 years later.  The really sad thing is, I still remember this, maybe it is time I got over it.

[MaryBeth]

Hi Jeanne:  Are you looking for a flanged shoulder pattern?  I did a blog entry about that feature at TheSewingDivas.blogspot.com

[MN_SwimMom]

Another vintage pattern that looks like this is McCall's 3242.  A picture of it can be found here.

This topic is well-timed.  I've been eyeing some cranberry plaid wool over at Textile Studio and thinking what a great fabric it would be for a coat like this, but I couldn't find the right pattern. 

[twistedangel]

I hope this is your size - Butterick 7044

 

[Jeanne]

Oh, Mary Beth, I have the Encore Designs Scalloped Shirt Pattern.  Forgot all about it having a shoulder flange.

Twisted, I only wish I had a 34" bust.  I'm beginning to think I can modify something I already have.  Especially if I get a good look at Mama's jacket.  Now, just to find the time.

I remember when Mama was my age she insisted on making shirt waist dresses with a back yoke like these jackets.  She said it was the only way she could get a nice looking fit across her back.  Since I seem to have acquired a new body part, I like to call the "back boobs" (one extra little fat pocket on each side just below and behind my arm), I understand why she was so fond of this style.

Thanks for all of your help,

Jeanne

[Shoshanah]

I am wondering if those of us who find Kwik Sew patterns too wide in the shoulders might start with one and make the flange/pleat to shorten the shoulder length.  Any ideas or experience with this?

I have been fascinated by 49ers for a few years and have come close to actually purchasing one from Pendleton.  However, there are a couple of concerns.  First, the size of the plaid and secondly, the length on a larger woman. They made them in solid colors briefly (I have seen a solid red one)  but have gone back to the plaids. 

BTW, they also came with shoulder pads under the flange.  That combination would certainly modify sloped shoulders. 

[Liana]

Hi Shoshanah,  Welcome to SG! 

I think you could get away with making a pleat in the shoulder, as you say.  I used to do this when I was larger, as the shoulders were always too wide, and I needed the room in the bust anyway.  A couple of my favorite blouse patterns still have a pleat at the shoulder that contains part of the (unstitched) bust dart room.  If you did this though, you'd either have to have a pleat in the back also (probably not what you want with a yoke) or you'd have to alter the yoke, which might not be a problem at all.  You could just make the yoke length match the front shoulder width, and then do any real changing you needed on the piece below.  Sort of a "down and dirty" method that usually works just fine.   I think I'd try it in something else before I cut my nice wool plaid, or whatever.

[Shoshanah]

Thanks for the Welcome.  I have been a lurker for awhile. 

Yes, you are right about the yoke.  I was confusing it with a Willis and Geiger shirt that has the flange in the back.

I haven't found the difinitive answer to knocking off the 49er yet, consequently I still don't have one.   

As an aside, there is an orange solid colored 49er on Ebay right now for those who have not seen it in a solid color.  i haven't figured out how to do a nice clean link yet, sorry.

[blue mooney]

Reviving this topic because I'm planning a similar jacket, using a Burda WOF pattern, an homage to a mint green jacket my mom had back in the 50s. Hers had saddle stitching around all the edges and pockets. I have my mint/aqua wool (yummy) but need advice on saddle stitching.

Would a buttonhole twist stand out enough? Is there a better choice of thread? Should the stitches go through all thicknesses of fabric, or should I try to work on just a single layer? I'll be getting some tiger tape to keep my handwork nice and even. Any and all tips on this technique are welcome!

[Liana]

Buttonhole twist will probably work fine.  I'm thinking of the "old style" twist, that was actually silk, and was quite thick.  I know there's something else now, and I'm not sure how that will work, but as in anything, test it and see if you like it.  Sounds like you're planning to do it by hand.  Actual saddle stitch used 2 needles and 2 threads, so you get the look of a long lockstitch, but it's hand done.  You can get a very similar look using the triple straight stitch on your machine.  Since you're going over each stitch 3 times, you can get away with a lighter thread as well.  Whatever you decide, I would definitely go through all the layers.  That will give you the indented look that is typical of saddle stitching.  If you don't have an example handy to look at, go to a menswear store and there should be something there with it.  I really like saddle stitching.  Hope yours turns out well!

[fzxdoc]

Robyn, here is a link to a mini-tutorial on how to do the saddle stitch with two needles:

Saddlestitch technique

You can get thick silk buttonhole twist, which looks gorgeous in many topstitching techniques, in many colors from this site:

Silk Buttonhole Twist

HTH,
Kathryn

[blue mooney]

Thanks, Liana and Kathryn! This is an important jacket for me (reminds me of Mom), so I want to make sure I have the best materials, and yes I'm doing the accent stitching by hand. That's the way it looked on the original. I'd like to get it done in time for spring wearing...we'll see!

[andib]

Which pattern are you using??  I love to live vicariously thru everyone.  I remember wearing my Gma's while in College.

[blue mooney]

Andib, the pattern I'm thinking about is from Burda WOF - Sorry, I don't have the issue & number that I'm considering with me right now. It's not exactly like the Pendleton jacket, but neither was Mom's - has the same sort of "shirty" quality, though. I think this was a popular style in the 50's and there were lots of slightly different versions around. 

[blue mooney]

I actually did finally get this project made...and finally got a picture taken.

I ended up using Louise Cutting's Town & Country camp shirt for my pattern. Lengthened the sleeves, added cuff & placket, added the pleat at the front shoulder like the 49'er. I used the tire silk to do oversized topstitching on all the outside edges, yoke, cuffs, and pockets. Since I was doing all that hand topstitching, I also took the time to bind the seam allowances with china silk.Thanks to all who gave advice, pointed me to suppliers, etc!
The jacket really reminds me of Mom. I'll enjoy wearing it when spring rolls around again!

[lessalt]

Robyn,
Your jacket is beautiful, enjoy wearing it. You would make Mom proud.

[BetsyV]

Robyn

pretty jacket! Do you HAVE to wait until spring? We haven't had any cold weather yet in the northeast - I still have healthy tomato plants believe it or not. Seems like this would be a perfect light jacket for early fall weather too.

[marciae]

BEAUTIFUL!!  Happy to see you photos.  I have some plaid pendelton wool - sooo, am thinking.........!!!!

[Liana]

Robyn,  It's just beautiful!  You've really sewn some memories into this jacket, and I'll bet you'll have a daughter or granddaughter who'll be looking for a jacket just like Mom's someday too.  Love the topstitching, and all your details sound wonderful.  Enjoy wearing it. 

[Karrol]

Gosh! That jacket is super cool! Love it. I have a real affection for those jackets from the 40's too, my mom wore one till it wore out. I stole my dad's from his closet and wore it to death too. Then I wanted to re-create it and have been stashing a lot of vintage jacket and coat patterns purchased mostly from ebay sellers. What a treasure trove! Your jacket looks so authentic, it's all in the details, don't you think? very nice, enjoy wearing it.

[CCO]

Gorgeous jacket. I have the "new" 49er that I bought about four years ago.  I love it and there's nothing better than a Pendleton plaid. In fact, do any of you know what fabric stores where the plaids are sold?

[lyra]

I used the tire silk to do oversized topstitching on all the outside edges, yoke, cuffs, and pockets. Since I was doing all that hand topstitching, I also took the time to bind the seam allowances with china silk.Thanks to all who gave advice, pointed me to suppliers, etc!

Wow. That's amazing- and look at how even your stitches are!  I'm in awe.   

[Liana]

Gorgeous jacket. I have the "new" 49er that I bought about four years ago.  I love it and there's nothing better than a Pendleton plaid. In fact, do any of you know what fabric stores where the plaids are sold?

CCO,  I don't often see Pendleton plaids in fabric stores, but if you're anywhere near one of their factory outlets, they usually have some fabric too, and in some cases, a lot.  They unfortunately closed the one near me (it was in Bellevue, Nebraska) but still have a much smaller one in Nebraska City.  Their main place is of course in Oregon, and they are supposed to have a great outlet there.  I have heard that if you call them, they'll send fabric to you, but I've not tried it.  If you can get their fabric, it's really great, fabulous prices, and needle-ready; all pre-shrunk and ready to cut out.  Even the linings, etc. are needle-ready.  I really got spoiled by them!    They have whatever the factory's been working with, so their stock varies, but they usually have a lot of their signature plaids.

[LauraTS]

Robyn, what a great jacket. I bought a vintage pattern in this shape after reading this thread earlier this year, so maybe someday I'll make one myself - it's a great look.

[fzxdoc]

Robyn, you've moved the 49er into the new millennium!  It looks so good!  I really like the soft, fresh color and the lovely topstitching.  It's quite a showpiece, and a wonderful nod to the women who wore one like it back in the day.  Thank you so much for taking the photo.  I was wondering a while back if you had ever made the jacket; it's so nice to see it finished and to hear how pleased you are with the result.

Kathryn