Author Topic: waist stay & pants pattern making  (Read 2429 times)

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Offline Emily

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waist stay & pants pattern making
« on: December 02, 2010, 12:15:07 AM »
When making a waist stay do you need to do anything extra to the pattern you are drafting other than making a tube for the "stay"?

Maybe it's not called a waist stay? What i'm referring to is the way you add adjustable waist where it can be taken in slightly or taken out. I'm pretty sure it's called a "stay" though.
« Last Edit: December 02, 2010, 05:14:51 AM by Emily »

Online fzxdoc

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Re: waist stay & pants pattern making
« Reply #1 on: December 02, 2010, 01:51:18 PM »
A waist stay is a length of ribbon or firm fabric that is inserted at the waist of a corselette or lining layer when constructing a fitted bodice. Its purpose is to help support the corselette, especially for strapless gowns.

I'm having trouble envisioning what you mean when talking about a waist stay for pants. It sounds as though you are talking about some sort of waist expander, perhaps at the side seam or back seam of pants.

I have seen pants that close in the pocket area where a bit of expansion does not make a difference in how straight or flat the side or back seams lie. I have also seen bits of grosgrain ribbon stitched inside pants closures with buttons placed about half an inch over to allow for a bit of expansion. Also, I've seen button loops made from rolled elastic. Do any of these ideas come close to what you want?

When making a waist stay do you need to do anything extra to the pattern you are drafting other than making a tube for the "stay"?


Where exactly are you thinking of putting the tube?  Sorry for not seeing this more clearly. I think I need more coffee. :)  Hopefully someone else can come to the rescue.

Kathryn

Offline miranda

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Re: waist stay & pants pattern making
« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2010, 02:26:20 PM »
I think I know what you mean - a regular waistline treatment like a zipper and wasitband, but with a tie sort of threaded through a channel in the waistband.  I can't think of anything you'd need to do to the pattern, except of course to make sure the garment fits the larger size.  I've had pants like this, the tie appeared out of a buttonhole on either side of the fly front.  Does that sound like what you mean?

Miranda

Offline Emily

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Re: waist stay & pants pattern making
« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2010, 03:07:04 AM »
Miranda is right on with what I meant. Sorry for the confusion. I have a lot of concept books i've been reading and that's were I got the idea from. I might have gotten the pants cocepts mixed up with my lingerie books. I'll have to look again.

Kathyrn, I think "tube" wasn't quite the word I was looking to use but it was what came to mind. You know the adjustable pants you can buy for kid's. Usually always in jeans. It is almost always with buttons and seems to be made from elastic. It's placed in the waistband. This is what I was kind of going for. Something like this.

Sorry for not explaining myself better. I'm still learning:)

Offline theresa in tucson

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Re: waist stay & pants pattern making
« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2010, 04:01:29 AM »
Emily. David Page Coffin has an adjustable waistband in his Trouser book and you might want to check some old Nancy Zieman books as well as Sandra Betzina.  They both had waistbands where the back had inserted elastic for addtional give.

Offline LynnH

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Re: waist stay & pants pattern making
« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2010, 06:03:35 AM »
Emily - after Theresa's suggestions, I found these items in my various books.

Nancy Zieman - The Busy Woman's Sewing Book
- Fitted looking elasticized waistband - p90

Singer 101 Sewing Secrets
- Comfortable waistbands - p62

Sandra Betzina - More Power Sewing
- Designer Waistband Which Grows - p132

Lynn

Offline Emily

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Re: waist stay & pants pattern making
« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2010, 09:23:13 AM »
LynnH, I have both the Nancy and Singer books. I just haven't gotten to them yet. I'll have to take a peak in them. Thank you for letting me know the page numbers!

Online fzxdoc

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Re: waist stay & pants pattern making
« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2010, 01:51:08 PM »
Emily, it sounds as though you're on the right track now. Let us know what method you decide to use and how it works. I am always eager to learn something new.

Some of the books that LynnH recommended may be available in your local library. Wouldn't that be great!

Kathryn

Offline laurasj

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Re: waist stay & pants pattern making
« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2010, 07:52:08 PM »
Emily,
I think the elastic you described in the kids' jeans is called buttonhole elastic.

Offline jamesosews

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Re: waist stay & pants pattern making
« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2010, 11:50:45 PM »
Emily,

David Page Coffin had an article in Threads number 144, September 2009 on adjustable waistbands.  I've used this one a few times and it works great.  It doesn't use elastic, but relies on a pivot at the pocket and buttons at the waistband.  I liked this method because the ease created when the waistband is at it's smallest size is concealed by the pivoting pocket. 
If you can't be well adjusted, at least be well fitted.

Offline miranda

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Re: waist stay & pants pattern making
« Reply #10 on: December 04, 2010, 01:24:27 AM »
This "expands" more on the adjustable waistband:  http://makingtrouserswithdpc.blogspot.com/
Miranda

 

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