Author Topic: Sew Ruthie Style 2018 (comments now ok)  (Read 12174 times)

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Sew Ruthie Style 2018 (comments now ok)
« on: October 31, 2017, 11:42:14 PM »
Please post any comments on the chatter thread, thank you (this makes it easier for the moderators)

I am the designer, and this year I'm going to have another go at using some of the SWAP fabrics I picked out last year and never used.
I love them and many of them work well within the new guidlines.


Adapt what I planned last year to a simple plan for this using many of the same colours and fabrics (drop the black as I dislike it).

Have 3 main styles - trousers with slant pockets, a cardigan jacket and knit tops - which are sewn multiple times.

So it could look something like

Choose two neutral colours

I could choose Brown and Teal

Make at least three garments from each neutral colour

1              Brown trousers

2              Brown top

3              Brown cardigan

4              Teal trousers

5              Teal top

6              Teal cardigan


two accent colors and one print , make at least one garment from each print – woven jacket

I could choose Burgundy and Turquoise

7              Woven jacket of Burgundy and Turquoise (uses great tweedy fabric)

8              Burgundy top

9              Turquoise Top

10           Other choices from this colourway (brown or teal or burgundy or turquoise)

11           Other choices from this colourway (brown or teal or burgundy or turquoise)

The last two items could be free rein in my four colours and one 'print' (actually a textured tweed) depending on what else I want at that stage, could be brown skirt and teal skirt to make two core 4s, it could be a teal dress, or another brown top or a skirt in the tweed if there was enough left over.

Planning wise. 

I just finished a burgundy top which could go in at number 8. I don't want Burgundy as a neutral as I already have loads of burgundy pieces, so I'm treating it as an accent here.


The tweed cardigan jacket is going to be my print/multiple colours item, so I fancy making that between now and December 26th.

I don't want to use a purchased piece if I can avoid it, but I'll reserve the option!

I need to make a trouser pattern fit me well. So I can spend some time on test garments before sewing starts. I know exactly the style I want to make so that should be just fitting work. Once it fits I plan on sewing a brown one and a teal one (and maybe more but let's not get too excited).


I plan mostly simple knit tops and knit cardigan jackets. I'll sew by colour as I like to work like that.

I will share as I go.
« Last Edit: June 02, 2018, 10:01:08 PM by Sew Ruthie Sews »

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #1 on: November 01, 2017, 10:17:19 PM »


These are from Burda Feb 2010 Plus Section #135 B.
They make them from trouser fabrics with a bit of stretch, so I  might size up slightly and make a test pair in non stretch woven fabric to see if that matters or not. I'll do the version without the buttons and turnups.

If you haven't got a Burda mag from 2010 and want to make them, they are up on Burda style for purchase for £3.99.

For SWAP I plan to make these in brown and teal.

According to the Burda size chart I need size 48 trousers, I thought the 42 were only slightly too small and it should be something more like 44 or maybe 46 but hey! I guess I'll need to measure the tissue and decide.

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #2 on: November 02, 2017, 11:26:52 AM »
SWAP project timeframe:

Sewing begins on 26 December 2017 and ends 30 April 2018
One garment may be started on 1 November 2017 and completed prior to 26 December 2017
One garment may be completed prior to 1 November 2017
One RTW garment may be included


Oct 2017 - completed burgundy top which can be included as the previously made item
Nov/Dec 2017- sew the burgundy cardigan, and a test pair of Burda Feb 2010 Plus Section #135 B trousers (probably also in burgundy why not!)
Jan 2018 sew the teal items - trousers, top and cardigan
Feb 2018 sew the brown items - trousers, top and cardigan
Mar 2018 sew tweed items - tweed cardigan jacket and poss skirt (fabric permitting) or alternative bottom piece.
Apr 2018 sew the turquoise top and an accessory
May 2018 finalise photos and share

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #3 on: November 02, 2017, 10:38:16 PM »

See it larger here - https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qFIvIbJQPCQ/WfuctsiW5bI/AAAAAAAAKfg/4_l64bhMhrIi46X2iZ0YpGB6y8MWX1G3gCLcBGAs/s1600/SewRuthieStyle2018SWAP.jpg

Here's my (initial) plan. we'll have to see how closely I can stick to it!

First column is the brown pieces
Brown cardigan jacket
Brown tee/top
Brown trousers

Second column is the teal pieces
Teal cardigan jacket
Teal tee/top
Teal trousers

The centre column is the tweed cardigan jacket, and something else from the scraps, a skirt if it works out but maybe a bag or waistcoat if it doesn't!

The fourth column is burgundy
a burgundy top which I already made
and a burgundy cardigan which I'll probably make next as the machines are all threaded so it sort of makes sense to!

The fifth column currently only contains one turquoise top, which adds the second accent colour.

As much as possible the plan is to make all the things from the existing fabric resources (of which there are plenty) but there may well be a few extra pieces too :-)

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #4 on: November 03, 2017, 07:34:20 AM »
I am going to trace the pattern pieces for the trousers today.
I compared measurements to some reasonably fitting RTW trousers and am going to be cutting and sewing the size 46.
I have to decide what fabric to use for my test pair, which I will make up and wear to see what tweaks I need for the final pairs in the SWAP.
I really like this style of trousers so if I can get a reasonable fit I'll want to make it up multiple times. I can always retrace if/when I manage to lose some weight, until then I shall take care of the body I have now by making it nice clothes which fit and flatter.

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #5 on: November 04, 2017, 11:16:06 AM »
I made the burgundy cardigan and whilst its OK, I am not sure I love it enough to want it to be one of the 11 SWAP pieces.
So that means that anything else I sew between now and Dec 26th is a candidate for inclusion in the SWAP.
I am really liking teal, brown and burgundy and think they all work well with my personal colouring and together.

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #6 on: November 05, 2017, 08:02:25 PM »
Claret Cardigan using my old favourite New Look 6082 with a purchased belt (looks crisper than the tie belts I find).


I'm not sure this is special enough to be included in the SWAP. Though it looks quite good in the photo :-)

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #7 on: November 07, 2017, 07:43:52 AM »
I am working away on my Burda trousers, unlike my usual quick knit things these are taking some time. I am adjusting to that but enjoying the different pace.



These are from Burda Feb 2010 Plus Section #135 B.

I am making the size 46 from some dark aubergine fabric suting that's very thin and drapey but presses well. I don't know the fabric content but I suppose I could burn some scraps to see. Part of me wonders if it has some wool in the mix as it presses really well (and not like polyester). I bought it from the Monday Market Man as a bolt end and I think he'd had it in stock for some time. (He has a storage facility somewhere and as well as bringing new stuff from his wholesaler, sometimes brings old stuff from the storage location.)

So far I have done darts, pockets, inside leg, crotch and the right side seam, waistband is next and then left side seam with zipper before hemming.
I have to keep saying to myself not to put the zip in yet as it goes through the waistband as well so has to be after that.

I keep consulting the instructions to make sure I stay on track.

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #8 on: November 07, 2017, 07:44:53 AM »
Although I am not sure what I will sew as my accessory for SWAP I really enjoyed making these little fleece hats.

so perhaps something like that could be an option for me.

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #9 on: November 09, 2017, 10:48:44 PM »
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Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #10 on: November 09, 2017, 10:49:18 PM »
My test trousers are too tight. I realised that both the RTW trousers I measured and the pattern I used from Burda are for trouser fabrics with some stretch and I used trouser fabric with absolutely no stretch or give whatsoever.
However I've sewn with 1.5 cm seam allowance so could unpick and resew with 1 cm seam  instead and gain 8 x 0.5 = 4cm which might be enough. The pockets are beautifully finished so it is probably worth it.

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #11 on: November 09, 2017, 10:50:19 PM »
I think I've gained a little weight and my waistline does fluctuate during the day so its a tough one and a mightily frustrating one.
Option are lose weight, retrace one size up for my SWAP trs or let out the seams on the current pair and sew with smaller seam allowance on future pairs.

Note to self: I must not give up and make ponte elastic waist trousers!

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #12 on: November 10, 2017, 12:24:24 PM »
Unpicker to the rescue.
Trousers deconstructed back to core components ready for sewing back up with a smaller seam allowance and a new longer waistband.
May also need to rethink the diet a bit :-)

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #13 on: November 10, 2017, 10:00:03 PM »
Trouser pieces pressed flat and left to cool, then all the stray threads rmoved and sewed back up with a 1/4" seam.
I then tried them on again (without the waistband).4
--------------
Phew the 1/4" seams (instead of 5/8") have actually given me enough extra that they are now OK. Just shows that how much seam allowance you use really makes a difference. There's not enough extra on the waistband as its only 2 pieces (2 seams) so I'll need to cut some new waistband pieces. However I have just enough leftover fabric to do just that so I think it'll work out OK.

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #14 on: November 10, 2017, 10:29:28 PM »
My test trousers still need a new longer waistband, a zipper and hemming, but at least they go round me now.
Once complete I'll wear them for a bit and see if I love the pattern enough to make more pairs of trousers from it or not.
After I'd traced the pattern, I found a similar but slightly different one in the same size traced from a different Burda magazine last year but never sewn up, maybe I'll compare them and try them next, and then pick the one I prefer for SWAP next year.

Burda Magazine August 2010 # 137 (08/2010-137), which is a wrap front trouser from the plus section.
I like that I could make a wrap pair, but I could also use two of the normal fronts and make some more classic trousers from the same pattern.


Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #15 on: November 11, 2017, 08:18:07 AM »
Ah actually on closer inspection I traced April 2009 #134

which also need stretch trouser fabric

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #16 on: November 12, 2017, 08:28:24 AM »
I am not working on anything SWAP, instead I seem to be having a fleece detour, making hats and Christmas stockings for gifts and a charity event. I am hugely enjoying myself but my test trousers are still lacking a waistband.

I will come back to it I dare say once many more delicious little hats have been created.

We've only been going 2 weeks and I'm already distracted, so I'm not sure how well this bodes for the long haul in the new year.

I'm loving being back in the sewing room after a pause and hearing the machines going, its good for mental halth I'm sure!

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #17 on: November 12, 2017, 10:57:17 PM »
I have made 6 fleece Christmas stockings and 18 fleece hats (in 4 sizes) this weekend. I really enjoyed myself. I switched thread for this and have used one and a half bobbins of red in the sewing machine. I was really whizzing along with the serger, so much that one thread spool jumped off the spindle and rolled on the floor (still threaded), I just kept going.

I still have not cut out the new waistband for the aubergine Burda trousers.
This is the sewing version of when you should be studying for an exam so you clean or sort your wardrobe.

I also did some batch cooking so at least I shall have food for the week.

This is not how to get a SWAP done btw.

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #18 on: December 04, 2017, 07:34:05 AM »
I have continued with my Christmas Stocking and fleece hat sewing. Its been a lot of fun.

I have a few in progress ones to finish off in the next day or so and then I will try to redirect my attention to my test trousers.
I need to cut a new waistband, attach it and try on again, see if the fit is now OK.
Whilst I have joined the dress sew along, I actually wear trousers the most, so it will make sense to put the effort into getting a trouser pattern that works.
Fortunately I did find a style of trousers at Debenhams that works reasonably well for me and bought them in black, navy and taupe and a similar style in brown and burgundy so I am OK for trousers to actually wear whilst I mess about with fitting.

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #19 on: December 22, 2017, 11:53:02 AM »
I'm going to concentrate on one part of my SWAP colourway first and see how that goes.
I have the burgundy trousers to finish up and a print fleece jacket which needs some rework.
Then I plan to switch over to teal and make a coat and some other things.

https://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/


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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #20 on: December 31, 2017, 11:20:30 AM »
I never did finish the burgundy items, which is a bit of a shame, maybe on another strong willed day I can come back to them. Though they won't be part of SWAP due to timeframe.

Before Christmas I made a cardigan jacket


and after Boxing day I made a top


I have another top and a skirt in progress but they are made from a strange very dense knit which is hated by both the overlocker (serger) and coverhem even with new needles. So I am sewing them with the ordinary sewing machine as best I can, which maybe OK if I can press out the wavy hems. These are in a darker turquoise colour.

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #21 on: January 01, 2018, 06:44:08 PM »

Another iteration of the dropped shoulder, scooped neck top.
Here I used a mystery knit fabric which was very hard to sew, and would not co-operate with the overlocker (serger) or the coverhem (though I did just manage the sleeve hems on the coverhem).
So it is not overlocked inside and the main hem is sewn with a straight stitch and then pressed.
It pressed quite well so maybe its a dense cotton knit. It is pretty much identical on both sides and very resistant to needles.

General thoughts about which earlier sewn items to include are here
https://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/swap-2018.html

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #22 on: January 01, 2018, 06:46:04 PM »
There have been a few posts using different colours in wardrobe capsules on the vivienne files recently which might give ideas.
I never want to copy the wardrobes exactly, but do like the colour combos sometimes.

http://www.theviviennefiles.com/

This one is almost my colour scheme - brown, teal and burgundy

Offline Debbie S

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018
« Reply #23 on: January 02, 2018, 01:53:40 AM »
Ruthie, your teal tee is wonderful!  How close is it to the darker teal, as it really speaks to me!

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018 (comments on SWAP 2018 Chatter thread please)
« Reply #24 on: January 03, 2018, 07:37:22 AM »
Here's a teal skirt which makes the most recent teal top

Years ago I traced the skirt panel from a RTW dress I liked. The original dress is long gone but I still have that pattern piece. Here I've cut the front on the fold, and the centre back has a seam. I've also added a yoke which includes an elastic waistband. I used 2" wide elastic zigzagged to the jersey, folded over and stitched at the saides and back.

It can also be worn with the previous knit top for a dress look but that's a lot of tealiness!
I've styled it with a necklace and belt to give a bit more shape and sense of outfit.
I fill the tummy and hips out a bit more than Doris the Dummy does, but it gives the overall idea.

This wasn't in the original SWAP plan but I like it a lot.
« Last Edit: January 03, 2018, 07:39:37 AM by Sew Ruthie Sews »

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018 (comments on SWAP 2018 Chatter thread please)
« Reply #25 on: January 03, 2018, 07:48:58 AM »
Still thinking about that collection at http://www.theviviennefiles.com/2017/12/expanding-a-successful-travel-capsule-wardrobe-using-brown-with-teal-and-cream.html

In this one she has two shades of brown, plus teal and cream.

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018 (comments on SWAP 2018 Chatter thread please)
« Reply #26 on: January 03, 2018, 07:58:41 AM »
revisiting the rules with my newfound obsession with teal!

Choose two neutral colors
Ok so I am going to choose teal and brown

Add one accent color and two prints OR two accent colors and one print
OK so I choose one accent colour of turquoise here and have two prints, or maybe ivory would be more suitable?

Make at least three garments from each neutral color
At least three teal things
At least three brown things


Make at least one garment from each accent color
At least one garment in turquoise

Make at least one garment from each print
At least one garment from each of my two prints

Create multiple outfits of at least two garments that work for your personal style
So not everything has to go with everything e.g. print skirt and print top

Each garment must work with a minimum of two outfits
I'll need to check this but should be fairly easy to do

OK so that could look like this

1 teal top
2 teal skirt
3 teal jacket

4 brown top
5 brown trousers
6 brown jacket

7 turquoise or ivory

8 item from print 1 (brown/teal/ivory)
9 item from print 2 (brown/teal/ivory)

10 item in any of the above
11 item in any of the above
« Last Edit: January 03, 2018, 08:05:24 AM by Sew Ruthie Sews »

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018 (comments on SWAP 2018 Chatter thread please)
« Reply #27 on: January 03, 2018, 09:19:58 AM »
Trying to keep myself on course with the SWAP plan, I need to avoid the various print fabrics and concentrate on everything going with this tweedy fabric which is to be a cardigan jacket

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018 (comments on SWAP 2018 Chatter thread please)
« Reply #28 on: January 04, 2018, 08:17:03 AM »
I am now working on some teal linen trousers

I really like this pattern, (New Look 6216)  and plan to also make the top view C. It feels relaxed and current, and has nice slim legs on the trousers. It wasn't that hard to construct so I could see a careful beginner having good results with it.

There's enough linen left over for my favourite skirt pattern so I will make that next and I should have addressed the lack of bottoms in the teal section!

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018 (comments on SWAP 2018 Chatter thread please)
« Reply #29 on: January 04, 2018, 09:51:47 PM »
New Look 6216 Trousers finished. They are made from a teal linen.
These are super comfortable and will be great casual trousers.

They look better on me than on the hanger and are a lot more turquoise than my terrible indoor night shot shows them.

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018 (comments on SWAP 2018 Chatter thread please)
« Reply #30 on: January 07, 2018, 09:35:41 AM »
I really love this skirt pattern (Butterick 3972 OOP), and its great in cotton and linen fabrics, as it drapes nicely without hugging the lumps and bumps too much.

Its really clever how it takes 5 angular pieces (variations on triangles and a square) and makes a bias skirt. Its very economical to cut out (once shortened).

Its got a lot of topstitching which can be a contrast colour or close. Here I've used a slightly lighter teal, but just ordinary thread.

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018 (comments on SWAP 2018 Chatter thread please)
« Reply #31 on: January 08, 2018, 08:10:03 AM »
Well I'm not exactly on plan, but I have plenty of time.
I'm still in the area of making at least three garments from my first neutral colour which at the moment (including pre SWAP timeframe) is so far at 8 items.


I have two more things in teal I am desperate to make, and which will take a bit longer than a knit top or an elastic waisted something.
They are a coat and some trousers.
This is the style of coat, though I plan to add a lining also

And this is the style of trousers

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018 (comments on SWAP 2018 Chatter thread please)
« Reply #32 on: January 08, 2018, 09:58:23 PM »
Debating how exactly to use two fabrics to make the teal coat
http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php?topic=1321.msg32384#msg32384







https://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/coat-options-with-teal-blue-and-teal.html

Lets hope there are some notches to help with drafting that two piece sleeve to line up with the princess seams.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2018, 10:22:22 PM by Sew Ruthie Sews »

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018 (comments on SWAP 2018 Chatter thread please)
« Reply #33 on: January 09, 2018, 07:56:05 AM »
Some of the options I drew are not practical with the available yardage, however I do have one new one which I really like, and is closer too to my original inspiration.

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6m1JNx3Ug3w/WlRvHt3WrFI/AAAAAAAAKwc/K-xZyCjE06UdEmmREKCiWbCZD0BsTFQoQCLcBGAs/s320/CoatOptionsPrimaopt9.jpg

In this (option 9), the sides are dark as is the back, sleeves and belt. The lighter bluer teal is only used for the front and front facing, which becomes the collar (and the back neck facing which I've not been showing).

This has the contrast distributed like my original inspiration coat and I reckon could be got out of the yardage I have available.

It takes on board a few points which people raised which were
- lots of people wanted the darker at the sides as they thought it was slimming
- a few people found the collar being a different colour to the front distracting, and I think I probably agree.

Other things I have added in as we go on this journey
- there is really limited yardage of both actual fabrics and I'm pretty sure the fabric quantities required is marked wrongly on the pattern. My calculations have at least 3.1 m for the knee length coat, this means some (lots) of the options I drew and people liked I just can't do.
- the bluer fabric is a litle softer and less scratchy then the greener, and I bet that would be nicer round the face where its most likely to touch my skin.
- Some of the designs seem very bitty with a lot of movement between the two colours, I might find it difficult to sew with enough precision in this heavy wool to have the sections lined up and looking good (on the two piece sleeve options etc).

Offline Sew Ruthie Sews

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Re: Sew Ruthie Style 2018 (comments on SWAP 2018 Chatter thread please)
« Reply #34 on: January 09, 2018, 08:04:43 AM »
I wonder if I would have enough scraps left over to make myself a little hat, I'm sure I've got a pattern somewhere... perhaps that could be my accessory!